Avr2011 kit - Revision history

Hexagon5un: Tiny explanation added to Schematics, etc

2014-02-19T21:51:17Z

Tiny explanation added to Schematics, etc

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:51, 19 February 2014
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	=== Schematics, etc ===		=== Schematics, etc ===

			If you'd like to make yourself a class-board, the attached Eagle files should get you started.

			Warning: It's a good idea to socket your AVR in the board so that you can remove/swap chips when you want to.

			Also, the LEDs in port B will over-ride the SPI port. For the class, we used AVRs with a bootloader already flashed into them, so we didn't use the SPI most of the time. If you'd like to use the SPI instead, you can '''probably''' get away with using large-value (1k Ohm?) resistors for the LEDs. Best is to omit them if you're going to use the SPI a lot, though.

	[[Media: mega_classboard_files.zip]]		[[Media: mega_classboard_files.zip]]

			Finally, if you want something with almost all of the functionality (but none of the style!), Evil Mad Science sells a nice, very cheap, AVR Mega breakout board.

	[[Category:Microcontrollers]]		[[Category:Microcontrollers]]
	[[Category:AVR_Class]]		[[Category:AVR_Class]]

Tslagle at 20:49, 3 April 2012

2012-04-03T20:49:46Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:49, 3 April 2012
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	=== Kit Contents ===		=== Kit Contents ===

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	[[Category:Microcontrollers]]		[[Category:Microcontrollers]]
			[[Category:AVR_Class]]

Hexagon5un: /* Assembling the Kit */

2011-04-26T22:03:00Z

Assembling the Kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:03, 26 April 2011
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	=== Assembling the Kit ===		=== Assembling the Kit ===

			0) If you're new at soldering (or even if you're not) go spend seven minutes with [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4 the best soldering video ever].

	1) To get your feet wet soldering, install the two capacitors. They can go in either capacitor position, and are non-polarized (can go in either way). When you clip off the leads from the capacitors, save the wire for the next step.		1) To get your feet wet soldering, install the two capacitors. They can go in either capacitor position, and are non-polarized (can go in either way). When you clip off the leads from the capacitors, save the wire for the next step.

Hexagon5un: /* Adding the Light Sensor */

2011-03-15T05:27:41Z

Adding the Light Sensor

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:27, 15 March 2011
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	10) You should now be ready to flash in your first program. Hooray. From here on it's (mostly) firmware!		10) You should now be ready to flash in your first program. Hooray. From here on it's (mostly) firmware!

	=== Adding the Light Sensor ===		=== Adding the Light Sensor for Class 2 (ADC) ===

	For the light sensor, you're creating a voltage divider with the photoresistor and two legs of the potentiometer used as a variable resistor. The photoresistor is connected to VCC and the AVR pin PC0, and the variable resistor from PC0 to ground.		For the light sensor, you're creating a voltage divider with the photoresistor and two legs of the potentiometer used as a variable resistor. The photoresistor is connected to VCC and the AVR pin PC0, and the variable resistor from PC0 to ground.

Hexagon5un: /* Adding the Light Sensor */

2011-03-15T05:27:17Z

Adding the Light Sensor

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:27, 15 March 2011
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	=== Adding the Light Sensor ===		=== Adding the Light Sensor ===

			For the light sensor, you're creating a voltage divider with the photoresistor and two legs of the potentiometer used as a variable resistor. The photoresistor is connected to VCC and the AVR pin PC0, and the variable resistor from PC0 to ground.

			In the following image, the red pins represent the potentiometer, and the blue are the leads from the photoresistor.

	[[Image: avr2011_bare_board_annotated_small.jpg \| 500 px]]		[[Image: avr2011_bare_board_annotated_small.jpg \| 500 px]]

			Start out by placing and soldering the potentiometer on the underside of the board. Make sure that the smaller center pin connects to the ground lines. Do _NOT_ clip the leads short yet.

	[[Image: avr2011_board_bottom.jpg \| 500 px]]		[[Image: avr2011_board_bottom.jpg \| 500 px]]

			Bend one lead on the variable resistor up and over the two other holes on the board, and plug it into PC0. Solder it in on the top side. Now soldering the photoresistor in place should be easy.

	[[Image: avr2011_board_topside_soldered.jpg \| 500 px]]		[[Image: avr2011_board_topside_soldered.jpg \| 500 px]]

			Flash in the light sensor firmware and turn the potentiometer until it give you a nice range of values on the LED display. I found that turning it up to _just_ max out in full light works well -- you'll see that it'll get down to one or two bars when you cover the cell with your hand. You're done!

	=== Schematics, etc ===		=== Schematics, etc ===

Hexagon5un: /* Adding the Light Sensor */

2011-03-15T05:20:23Z

Adding the Light Sensor

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:20, 15 March 2011
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	[[Image: avr2011_bare_board_annotated_small.jpg \| 500 px]]		[[Image: avr2011_bare_board_annotated_small.jpg \| 500 px]]
	[[Image: ~~avr2011_board_topside~~.jpg \| 500 px]]		[[Image: avr2011_board_bottom.jpg \| 500 px]]
	[[Image: avr2011_board_topside_soldered.jpg \| 500 px]]		[[Image: avr2011_board_topside_soldered.jpg \| 500 px]]


	=== Schematics, etc ===		=== Schematics, etc ===

Hexagon5un: /* Schematics, etc */

2011-03-15T05:18:02Z

Schematics, etc

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:18, 15 March 2011
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	10) You should now be ready to flash in your first program. Hooray. From here on it's (mostly) firmware!		10) You should now be ready to flash in your first program. Hooray. From here on it's (mostly) firmware!

			=== Adding the Light Sensor ===

			[[Image: avr2011_bare_board_annotated_small.jpg \| 500 px]]
			[[Image: avr2011_board_topside.jpg \| 500 px]]
			[[Image: avr2011_board_topside_soldered.jpg \| 500 px]]


	=== Schematics, etc ===		=== Schematics, etc ===

Hexagon5un: /* Assembling the Kit */

2011-03-04T03:15:15Z

Assembling the Kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:15, 4 March 2011
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	[[Image:avr2011_ftdiInstall.jpg\|500px]]		[[Image:avr2011_ftdiInstall.jpg\|500px]]

	6) Now start on the LEDs. They _are_ polarized, and you'll notice that one lead is longer than the other. The short lead gets connected to ground, while the long lead will eventually connect through a resistor to the AVR output pins. (Resistors soldered in next step.) Place the LEDs so that their short leads are in the ground strip (labelled GND), and the long lead is in one of the outside rows of hookup holes. Orientation matters here. Double-check it before soldering?		6) Now start on the LEDs -- in PORTB pins PB0 through PB7. They _are_ polarized, and you'll notice that one lead is longer than the other. The short lead gets connected to ground, while the long lead will eventually connect through a resistor to the AVR output pins. (Resistors soldered in next step.) Place the LEDs so that their short leads are in the ground strip (labelled GND), and the long lead is in one of the outside rows of hookup holes. Orientation matters here. Double-check it before soldering?

	[[Image:avr1022_rowLEDs.jpg\|500px]]		[[Image:avr1022_rowLEDs.jpg\|500px]]

Hexagon5un: /* Assembling the Kit */

2011-03-04T02:11:05Z

Assembling the Kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:11, 4 March 2011
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	[[Image:avr2011_jumpers.jpg\|500px]]		[[Image:avr2011_jumpers.jpg\|500px]]

	5) Solder in the 6-pin header for the FTDI cable		5) Solder in the 6-pin header for the FTDI cable. Rather than doing it the way I did (which covers the labels on the circuit board) why not mount the header on the bottom side like Ed did?

			[[Image:avr2011_ftdiInstall.jpg\|500px]]

	6) Now start on the LEDs. They _are_ polarized, and you'll notice that one lead is longer than the other. The short lead gets connected to ground, while the long lead will eventually connect through a resistor to the AVR output pins. (Resistors soldered in next step.) Place the LEDs so that their short leads are in the ground strip (labelled GND), and the long lead is in one of the outside rows of hookup holes. Orientation matters here. Double-check it before soldering?		6) Now start on the LEDs. They _are_ polarized, and you'll notice that one lead is longer than the other. The short lead gets connected to ground, while the long lead will eventually connect through a resistor to the AVR output pins. (Resistors soldered in next step.) Place the LEDs so that their short leads are in the ground strip (labelled GND), and the long lead is in one of the outside rows of hookup holes. Orientation matters here. Double-check it before soldering?

Hexagon5un: /* Assembling the Kit */

2011-03-03T23:33:36Z

Assembling the Kit

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:33, 3 March 2011
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	5) Solder in the 6-pin header for the FTDI cable		5) Solder in the 6-pin header for the FTDI cable

	6) Now start on the LEDs. They _are_ polarized, and you'll notice that one lead is longer than the other. The short lead gets connected to ground, while the long lead ~~connects~~ through a resistor to the AVR output pins. Place so that their short leads are in the ground strip (labelled GND), and the long lead is in one of the outside rows of hookup holes. Orientation matters here. Double-check it before soldering?		6) Now start on the LEDs. They _are_ polarized, and you'll notice that one lead is longer than the other. The short lead gets connected to ground, while the long lead will eventually connect through a resistor to the AVR output pins. (Resistors soldered in next step.) Place the LEDs so that their short leads are in the ground strip (labelled GND), and the long lead is in one of the outside rows of hookup holes. Orientation matters here. Double-check it before soldering?

	[[Image:avr1022_rowLEDs.jpg\|500px]]		[[Image:avr1022_rowLEDs.jpg\|500px]]
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	10) You should now be ready to flash in your first program. Hooray. From here on it's (mostly) firmware!		10) You should now be ready to flash in your first program. Hooray. From here on it's (mostly) firmware!



	=== Schematics, etc ===		=== Schematics, etc ===