HacDC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-17T18:55:48Z

Toast:

__notoc__
This is a 6 week series intended for all skill/knowledge levels. Each class will have a hands on portion so bring your bike in, stands will be provided. If you can't, don't worry, each class will have relevant demo bikes and components on hand. Tools will be limited so bring in your own if you have them.

==Lesson Overviews==
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_1,_Introduction_and_Flat_Repair|Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_2,_Basic_Fit,_Component_Materials,_and_Brake_System|Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_3|Week 3, Drivetrain and Shifting]]

==Online Resources==
[http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ Sheldon Brown] - More than you'll ever want to know about bikes.
[http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help Park Tool Repair Help] - World class tool company with great, straight forward how-to's.
[http://www.waba.org/ WABA] - Washington Area Bicycle Association. Awesome people, awesome resource.

==Offline Resources==
Your local bike shop! Go support them!

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-17T02:03:51Z

Toast:

__notoc__
This is a 6 week series intended for all skill/knowledge levels. Each class will have a hands on portion so bring your bike in, stands will be provided. If you can't, don't worry, each class will have relevant demo bikes and components on hand. Tools will be limited so bring in your own if you have them.

==Lesson Overviews==
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_1,_Introduction_and_Flat_Repair|Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_2,_Basic_Fit,_Component_Materials,_and_Brake_System|Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_3|Week 3, Drive Train and Shifting]]

==Online Resources==
[http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ Sheldon Brown] - More than you'll ever want to know about bikes.
[http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help Park Tool Repair Help] - World class tool company with great, straight forward how-to's.
[http://www.waba.org/ WABA] - Washington Area Bicycle Association. Awesome people, awesome resource.

==Offline Resources==
Your local bike shop! Go support them!

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-08T06:36:29Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least an inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. It can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparatively more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing is thinner in the center of the tube than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
*'''Level'''
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hightest point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

*'''Height'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 11 and 5 o'clock, place the heels of you feet on the peddles (you might want to get a friend to hold the bike steady for you). Adjust your saddle so that the extended leg bends slightly at the knee. The idea is the more leg extension you can get, the more efficient the stroke, but you ''never'' want your leg to extent fully as this is very bad for you knees.
[[Image:saddleheight.jpg | 200 px]]

*'''Setback'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 3 and 9 o'clock, the front of your leading knee should be plumb with the peddles spindle.

===Handlebar/Stem Position===
Seeing as you can have anything from drop bars to 5" risers on a bike, this is mostly personal preference. Just make sure you knees aren't going to hit the bars when your taking a sharp corner. A more upright position gives you better visibility while a lower position will make you more aerodynamic.

===Cockpit Set-up===
All of this is personal preference, but here's a starting point.
*'''Flat Handlebars'''
*'''Drop Handlebars'''

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-08T06:33:57Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least an inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. It can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparatively more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing is thinner in the center of the tube than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
*'''Level'''
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hightest point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

*'''Height'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 11 and 5 o'clock, place the heels of you feet on the peddles (you might want to get a friend to hold the bike steady for you). Adjust your saddle so that the extended leg bends slightly at the knee. The idea is the more leg extension you can get, the more efficient the stroke, but you ''never'' want your leg to extent fully as this is very bad for you knees.
[[Image:saddleheight.jpg | 200 px]]

*'''Setback'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 3 and 9 o'clock the front of your leading knee should be plumb with the peddles spindle.

===Handlebar/Stem Position===
Seeing as you can have anything from drop bars to 5" risers on a bike, this is mostly personal preference. Just make sure you knees aren't going to hit the bars when your taking a sharp corner. A more upright position gives you better visibility while a lower position will make you more aerodynamic.

===Cockpit Set-up===
All of this is personal preference, but here's a starting point.
*'''Flat Handlebars'''
*'''Drop Handlebars'''

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-08T06:28:53Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least an inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparability more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
*'''Level'''
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hightest point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

*'''Height'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 11 and 5 o'clock, place the heels of you feet on the peddles (you might want to get a friend to hold the bike steady for you). Adjust your saddle so that the extended leg bends slightly at the knee. The idea is the more leg extension you can get, the more efficient the stroke, but you ''never'' want your leg to extent fully as this is very bad for you knees.
[[Image:saddleheight.jpg | 200 px]]

*'''Setback'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 3 and 9 o'clock the front of your leading knee should be plumb with the peddles spindle.

===Handlebar/Stem Position===
Seeing as you can have anything from drop bars to 5" risers on a bike, this is mostly personal preference. Just make sure you knees aren't going to hit the bars when your taking a sharp corner. A more upright position gives you better visibility while a lower position will make you more aerodynamic.

===Cockpit Set-up===
All of this is personal preference, but here's a starting point.
*'''Flat Handlebars'''
*'''Drop Handlebars'''

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T22:44:57Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparability more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
*'''Level'''
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hightest point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

*'''Height'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 11 and 5 o'clock, place the heels of you feet on the peddles (you might want to get a friend to hold the bike steady for you). Adjust your saddle so that the extended leg bends slightly at the knee. The idea is the more leg extension you can get, the more efficient the stroke, but you ''never'' want your leg to extent fully as this is very bad for you knees.
[[Image:saddleheight.jpg | 200 px]]

*'''Setback'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 3 and 9 o'clock the front of your leading knee should be plumb with the peddles spindle.

===Handlebar/Stem Position===
Seeing as you can have anything from drop bars to 5" risers on a bike, this is mostly personal preference. Just make sure you knees aren't going to hit the bars when your taking a sharp corner. A more upright position gives you better visibility while a lower position will make you more aerodynamic.

===Cockpit Set-up===
All of this is personal preference, but here's a starting point.
*'''Flat Handlebars'''
*'''Drop Handlebars'''

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T22:37:38Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparability more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
*'''Level'''
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hightest point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

*'''Height'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 11 and 5 o'clock, place the heels of you feet on the peddles (you might want to get a friend to hold the bike steady for you). Adjust your saddle so that the extended leg bends slightly at the knee. The idea is the more leg extension you can get, the more efficient the stroke, but you ''never'' want your leg to extent fully as this is very bad for you knees.
[[Image:saddleheight.jpg | 200 px]]

*'''Setback'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 3 and 9 o'clock the front of your leading knee should be plumb with the peddles spindle.

===Handlebar/Stem Position===
seeing as

===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T22:36:12Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparability more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
*'''Level'''
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hights point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

*'''Height'''*
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 11 and 5 o'clock, place the heels of you feet on the peddles (you might want to get a friend to hold the bike steady for you). Adjust your saddle so that the extended leg bends slightly at the knee. The idea is the more leg extention you can get, the more effencent the stroke, but you ''never'' want your leg to extent fully as this is very bad for you knees.
[[Image:saddleheight.jpg | 200 px]]

*'''Setback'''
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 3 and 9 o'clock the front of your leading knee should be plumb with the peddles spindle.

===Handlebar/Stem Position===
seeing as

===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T22:33:59Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparability more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
====Level====
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hights point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

====Height====
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 11 and 5 o'clock, place the heels of you feet on the peddles (you might want to get a friend to hold the bike steady for you). Adjust your saddle so that the extended leg bends slightly at the knee. The idea is the more leg extention you can get, the more effencent the stroke, but you ''never'' want your leg to extent fully as this is very bad for you knees.
[[Image:saddleheight.jpg | 200 px]]

====Setback====
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 3 and 9 o'clock the front of your leading knee should be plumb with the peddles spindle.

===Handlebar/Stem Position===
seeing as

===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

File:Saddleheight.jpg

2011-03-07T22:33:06Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T22:32:37Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparability more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
====Level====
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hights point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

====Height====
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 12 and 6 o'clock, place the heels of you feet on the peddles (you might want to get a friend to hold the bike steady for you). Adjust your saddle so that the extended leg bends slightly at the knee. The idea is the more leg extention you can get, the more effencent the stroke, but you ''never'' want your leg to extent fully as this is very bad for you knees.
[[Image:saddleheight.jpg | 200 px]]

====Setback====
When in the saddle, with the peddles at 3 and 9 o'clock the front of your leading knee should be plumb with the peddles spindle.

===Handlebar/Stem Position===
seeing as

===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T22:16:55Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*'''Steel''' - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*'''Aluminium''' - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*'''Carbon''' - Carbon fiber frame are made by laminating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexibility in design that can result in extremely light bikes that are stiff in some area and good at absorbing vibration in others. The down side is that carbon fiber is brittle and comparability more expensive. If your riding a carbon bike, you shouldn't be locking it up anywhere outside.
'''Butted vs Straight Gauge''':
Double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight off a frame and providing a more comfortable ride.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
====Level====
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hights point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

====Height====
When in the saddle (your sit bones should be making

===Handlebar/Stem Position===

===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T22:06:17Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*Steel - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge, high-tensile steel.
*Aluminium - Stiffer and lighter than steel, aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb shock. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when leaning it up against poles and street sights to lock it up. Also, if your frame ever gets bent, that it, game over, time for a new frame.
*Carbon - Carbon fiber frame are made by lamating sheets of carbon fiber together with epoxy in a vacuum mold. This gives designers a great deal of flexablily in design that can result in extreamly light bikes that are stiff in some parts and
Butted vs Straight gauge:
Also look for double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight of a frame. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge high-tensile steel.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
====Level====
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hights point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

====Height====
When in the saddle (your sit bones should be making

===Handlebar/Stem Position===

===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T21:56:59Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit: Stand Over Height==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal preference. So what should you look at?
 
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 200 px]]

This will tell you if a bike fits you most of the time. While there are other components to bike fit, most of them are adjustments, which we will cover later in this class.

==Frame Materials==
Bikes frames are made out of three types of material:
*Steel - If your using your bike on a daily basis and have to lock it up outside sometimes(but never overnight!) steel is what you want. Its can take more abuse than aluminium or carbon and sometimes even be realigned after a particularly hard impact that would total other frames. Avoid frames made of high carbon or high-tensile steel (some times called hi-ten). Instead look for frames made of an alloy such as chromoly (chromium-molybdenum) as they are lighter, stronger, and resist rust better. Also look for double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight of a frame. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge high-tensile steel.
*Aluminium - Stiffer and lighter than steel aluminium is ideal for road bikes where you want to be putting down maximum power, or in a bike with suspension where you aren't relying on the frame to absorb road vibration. The thin tubing in nicer aluminium bikes is prone to dents and dings so be careful when your locking it up.
*
Butted vs Straight gauge:
Also look for double and triple butted tubing which is thinner in the center than at the ends, taking pounds of the weight of a frame. If the frame doesn't have a sticker stating what its made of, there's a good chance is straight gauge high-tensile steel.
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==

===Saddle Height and Position===
====Level====
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hights point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

====Height====
When in the saddle (your sit bones should be making

===Handlebar/Stem Position===

===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===

==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T21:50:05Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T21:41:39Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T21:30:55Z

Toast:

File:Standoverheight.jpg

2011-03-07T21:16:57Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T21:15:35Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal prefrence. So what should you look at?
===Stand Over Height===
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[Image:standoverheight.jpg | 100 px]]

===Saddle Height and Position===
====Level====
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hights point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

====Height====
When in the saddle (your sit bones should be making

==Component Materials==
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==
===Saddle Height and Position===
===Handlebar/Stem Position===
===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===
==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T21:14:09Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit==
Finding a bike that fits correctly is important, but its also is mostly about personal prefrence. So what should you look at?
===Stand Over Height==
The most basic component of bike fit is stand over height. On the bike its the distance from the top of the top tube to the ground. On the rider this measurement should be at least and inch or two less than the distance from your crotch to the ground. If you don't have that clearance you could really hurt yourself when dismounting. Stand over height differs between bikes that are the same size based on how the manufacture measures size and the bikes geometry.
[[standoverheight.jpg | 100 px]]

===Saddle Height and Position===
====Level====
Your saddle should always be about level or tipped slightly towards the front of the bike. Level is measured from the highest point on the rear of the saddle to the hights point on the front of the saddle (the nose). You can change this slightly but if the saddle is tilted to far forward, your going to put extra pressure on your wrists, to far back and the saddle's nose is going to start putting pressure on bits you wish it wouldn't.

====Height====
When in the saddle (your sit bones should be making

==Component Materials==
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==
===Saddle Height and Position===
===Handlebar/Stem Position===
===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===
==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

File:Bikediagram.gif

2011-03-07T18:18:57Z

Toast: uploaded a new version of "File:Bikediagram.gif"

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T08:56:18Z

Toast:

__notoc__
This is a 6 week series intended for all skill/knowledge levels. Each class will have a hands on portion so bring your bike in, stands will be provided. If you can't, don't worry, each class will have relevant demo bikes and components on hand. Tools will be limited so bring in your own if you have them.

==Lesson Overviews==
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_1,_Introduction_and_Flat_Repair|Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_2,_Basic_Fit,_Component_Materials,_and_Brake_System|Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_3,_Bearings:_Adjustment_and_Overhaul|Week 3, Bearings: Adjustment and Overhaul]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_4,_Drive_Train|Week 4, Drive Train]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_5,_Shifting|Week 5, Shifting]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_6,_Wheels:_Overview,_Free-hub_Disassembly,_and_Truing|Week 6, Wheels: Overview, Free-hub Disassembly, and Truing]]

==Online Resources==
[http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ Sheldon Brown] - More than you'll ever want to know about bikes.
[http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help Park Tool Repair Help] - World class tool company with great, straight forward how-to's.
[http://www.waba.org/ WABA] - Washington Area Bicycle Association. Awesome people, awesome resource.

==Offline Resources==
Your local bike shop! Go support them!

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T08:46:58Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System
==Judging Bike Fit==
==Component Materials==
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==
===Saddle Height and Position===
===Handlebar/Stem Position===
===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===
==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair

2011-03-07T08:46:12Z

Toast:

[[Bike_Maintenance_Class|Bike Maintenance Class:]] Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair
==Component Identification and Basic Terminology==

===What's What on a Bike===
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

===Drive Side and Non-drive Side===
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

===How to talk about gearing===
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

===Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading===

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

===Valves: Schrader and Presta===

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[Image:valvetypes.jpg | 150px ]]

==Basic Upkeep==
===Inflating Tires===
[[Image:valvedeflate.gif]]
===Cleaning and lubing the chain===

==Flat Repair==

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

==Hands On==

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

=='''Resources'''==

More than you really need to know about flats: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T08:21:16Z

Toast:

__notoc__
This is a 6 week series intended for all skill/knowledge levels. Each class will have a hands on portion so bring your bike in, stands will be provided. If you can't, don't worry, each class will have relevant demo bikes and components on hand. Tools will be limited so bring in your own if you have them.

==Lesson Overviews==
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_1,_Introduction_and_Flat_Repair|Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_2,_Basic_Fit,_Component_Materials,_and_Brake_System|Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_3,_Bearings:_Adjustment_and_Overhaul|Week 3, Bearings: Adjustment and Overhaul]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_4,_Drive_Train|Week 4, Drive Train]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_5,_Shifting|Week 5, Shifting]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_6,_Wheels:_Overview,_Free-hub_Disassembly,_and_Truing|Week 6, Wheels: Overview, Free-hub Disassembly, and Truing]]

==Online Resources==
[http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ Sheldon Brown] - More than you'll ever want to know about bikes.
[http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help Park Tool Repair Help] - World class tool company with great, straight forward how-to's.
[http://www.waba.org/ WABA] - Washington Area Bicycle Association. Awesome people, awesome resource.

==Offline Resources==
Your local bike shop! Go support them!

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T08:20:31Z

Toast:

This is a 6 week series intended for all skill/knowledge levels. Each class will have a hands on portion so bring your bike in, stands will be provided. If you can't, don't worry, each class will have relevant demo bikes and components on hand. Tools will be limited so bring in your own if you have them.

==Lesson Overviews==
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_1,_Introduction_and_Flat_Repair|Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_2,_Basic_Fit,_Component_Materials,_and_Brake_System|Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_3,_Bearings:_Adjustment_and_Overhaul|Week 3, Bearings: Adjustment and Overhaul]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_4,_Drive_Train|Week 4, Drive Train]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_5,_Shifting|Week 5, Shifting]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_6,_Wheels:_Overview,_Free-hub_Disassembly,_and_Truing|Week 6, Wheels: Overview, Free-hub Disassembly, and Truing]]

==Online Resources==
[http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ Sheldon Brown] - More than you'll ever want to know about bikes.
[http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help Park Tool Repair Help] - World class tool company with great, straight forward how-to's.
[http://www.waba.org/ WABA] - Washington Area Bicycle Association. Awesome people, awesome resource.

==Offline Resources==
Your local bike shop! Go support them!

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T08:11:22Z

Toast:

This is a 6 week bike maintenance class intended for all skill/knowledge levels. Each class will have a hands on portion so bring your bike in, stands will be provided. If you can't, don't worry, each class will have relevant demo bikes and components on hand. Tools will be limited so bring in your own if you have them.

==Lesson Overviews==
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_1,_Introduction_and_Flat_Repair|Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_2,_Basic_Fit,_Component_Materials,_and_Brake_System|Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_3,_Bearings:_Adjustment_and_Overhaul|Week 3, Bearings: Adjustment and Overhaul]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_4,_Drive_Train|Week 4, Drive Train]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_5,_Shifting|Week 5, Shifting]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_6,_Wheels:_Overview,_Free-hub_Disassembly,_and_Truing|Week 6, Wheels: Overview, Free-hub Disassembly, and Truing]]

==Online Resources==
[http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ Sheldon Brown] - More than you'll ever want to know about bikes.
[http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help Park Tool Repair Help] - World class tool company with great, straight forward how-to's.
[http://www.waba.org/ WABA] - Washington Area Bicycle Association. Awesome people, awesome resource.

==Offline Resources==
Your local bike shop! Go support them!

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System

2011-03-07T08:09:51Z

Toast: Created page with "==Judging Bike Fit== ==Component Materials== ==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up== ===Saddle Height and Position=== ===Handlebar/Stem Position=== ===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up=== ==B..."

==Judging Bike Fit==
==Component Materials==
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==
===Saddle Height and Position===
===Handlebar/Stem Position===
===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===
==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


==Overview, adjusting, and installing pads==

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T08:08:01Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T08:07:44Z

Toast:

This is a 6 week bike maintenance class intended for all skill/knowledge levels. Each class will have a hands on portion so bring your bike in, stands will be provided. If you can't, don't worry, each class will have relevant demo bikes and components on hand. Tools will be limited so bring in your own if you have them.

==Lesson Overviews==
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_1,_Introduction_and_Flat_Repair|Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_2,_Basic_Fit,_Component_Materials,_and_Brake_System|Week 2, Basic Fit, Component Materials, and Brake System]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_3,_Bearings:_Adjustment_and_Overhaul|Week 3, Bearings: Adjustment and Overhaul]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_4,_Drive_Train|Week 4, Drive Train]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_5,_Shifting|Week 5, Shifting]]
* [[Bike_Maintenance_Class:_Week_6,_Wheels:_Overview,_Free-hub_Disassembly,_and_Truing|Week 6, Wheels: Overview, Free-hub Disassembly, and Truing]]

==Online Resources==
 
[http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ Sheldon Brown] - More than you'll ever want to know about bikes.
[http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help Park Tool Repair Help] - World class tool company with great, straight forward how-to's.
[http://www.waba.org/ WABA] - Washington Area Bicycle Association. Awesome people, awesome resource.

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T07:55:22Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class: Week 1, Introduction and Flat Repair

2011-03-07T07:21:55Z

Toast: Created page with "==Component Identification and Basic Terminology== ===What's What on a Bike=== Image:bikediagram.gif ===Drive Side and Non-drive Side=== The right side of the bike i..."

==Component Identification and Basic Terminology==

===What's What on a Bike===
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

===Drive Side and Non-drive Side===
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

===How to talk about gearing===
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

===Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading===

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

===Valves: Schrader and Presta===

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[Image:valvetypes.jpg | 150px ]]

==Basic Upkeep==
===Inflating Tires===
[[Image:valvedeflate.gif]]
===Cleaning and lubing the chain===

==Flat Repair==

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

==Hands On==

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

=='''Resources'''==

More than you really need to know about flats: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T05:12:19Z

Toast:

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

= Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair =

=='''What was covered'''==

===Component Identification and Basic Terminology===

====What's What on a Bike====
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

====Drive Side and Non-drive Side====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

====How to talk about gearing====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Valves: Schrader and Presta====

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[Image:valvetypes.jpg | 150px ]]

===Basic Upkeep===
====Inflating Tires====
[[Image:valvedeflate.gif]]
====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

===Flat Repair===

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

===Hands On===

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

==='''Resources'''===

More than you really need to know about flats: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]
= Week 2: Basic Set-up/Fit, Component Materials, Overview of Brakes=
==Judging Bike Fit==
==Component Materials==
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==
===Saddle Height and Position===
===Handlebar/Stem Position===
===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===
==Breaks==
===System Overview/Styles===
====Pull Ratio====
====Mountain vs Road Cables====
====Calliper, Cantilever, and Linear Pull====
=====Quick Release=====
===Replacing Cable and Housing
====What's the Difference Between Break Housing and Shift Housing====
====Measuring and Cutting Housing====
====Installing Brake Cable====
===Replacing Brake Pads===
====Styles of Pads====


Overview, adjusting, and installing pads=
= Week 3: Bearings: Adjustment and Overhaul =
= Week 4: Drivetrain: Measuring wear and replacing parts=
= Week 5: Introduction and Flat Repair =
= Week 6: Introduction and Flat Repair =

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T05:04:26Z

Toast:

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

= Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair =

=='''What was covered'''==

===Component Identification and Basic Terminology===

====What's What on a Bike====
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

====Drive Side and Non-drive Side====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

====How to talk about gearing====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Valves: Schrader and Presta====

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[Image:valvetypes.jpg | 150px ]]

===Basic Upkeep===
====Inflating Tires====
[[Image:valvedeflate.gif]]
====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

===Flat Repair===

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

===Hands On===

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

==='''Resources'''===

More than you really need to know about flats: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]
= Week 2: Basic Set-up/Fit, Component Materials, Overview of Brakes=
==Judging Bike Fit==
==Component Materials==
==Saddle and Cockpit Set-Up==
===Saddle Height and Position===
===Handlebar/Stem Position===
===Cockpit Component Types/Set-up===

==Breaks==
==System Overview/Styles==
===
===Pull Ratio===

==

Overview, adjusting, and installing pads=
= Week 3: Bearings: Adjustment and Overhaul =
= Week 4: Drivetrain: Measuring wear and replacing parts=
= Week 5: Introduction and Flat Repair =
= Week 6: Introduction and Flat Repair =

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T03:12:43Z

Toast:

File:Bicycle.jpg

2011-03-07T03:03:48Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T03:03:33Z

Toast: /* What's What on a Bike */

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

= Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair =

=='''What was covered'''==

===Component Identification and Basic Terminology===

====What's What on a Bike====
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]
[[Image:bicycle.jpg]]

====Drive Side and Non-drive Side====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

====How to talk about gearing====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Valves: Schrader and Presta====

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[Image:valvetypes.jpg | 150px ]]

===Basic Upkeep===
====Inflating Tires====
[[Image:valvedeflate.gif]]
====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

===Flat Repair===

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

===Hands On===

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

==='''Resources'''===

More than you really need to know about flats: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T02:41:09Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T02:40:11Z

Toast:

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

= Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair =

=='''What was covered'''==

===Component Identification and Basic Terminology===

====What's What on a Bike====
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

====Drive Side and Non-drive Side====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

====How to talk about gearing====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px | right]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Valves: Schrader and Presta====

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[Image:valvetypes.jpg | 150px |thumb|left|alt text]]

===Basic Upkeep===
====Inflating Tires====
[[Image:valvedeflate.gif]]
====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

===Flat Repair===

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

===Hands On===

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

==='''Resources'''===

More than you really need to know about flats: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

File:Valvedeflate.gif

2011-03-07T02:32:26Z

Toast:

File:Valvetypes.jpg

2011-03-07T02:31:06Z

Toast:

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T02:30:30Z

Toast:

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

= Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair =

=='''What was covered'''==

===Component Identification and Basic Terminology===

====What's What on a Bike====
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

====Drive Side and Non-drive Side====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

====How to talk about gearing====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Valves: Schrader and Presta====

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[Image:valvetypes.jpg]]

===Basic Upkeep===
====Inflating Tires====
[[Image:valvedeflate.gif]]
====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

===Flat Repair===

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

===Hands On===

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

==='''Resources'''===

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T02:29:09Z

Toast:

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

= Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair =

=='''What was covered'''==

===Component Identification and Basic Terminology===

====What's What on a Bike====
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

====Drive Side and Non-drive Side====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

====How to talk about gearing====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Valves: Schrader and Presta====

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[valvetypes.jpg]]

===Basic Upkeep===
====Inflating Tires====
valvedeflate.gif
====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

===Flat Repair===

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

===Hands On===

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

==='''Resources'''===

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T02:14:47Z

Toast:

=uber section=

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

== Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair ==

==='''What was covered'''===

====Component Identification and Basic Terminology====

=====What's What on a Bike=====
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

=====Drive Side and Non-drive Side=====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

=====How to talk about gearing=====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

=====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading=====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

=====Valves: Schrader and Presta=====

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[valvetypes.gif]]

====Basic Upkeep====
=====Inflating Tires=====
=====Cleaning and lubing the chain=====

====Flat Repair====

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

====Hands On====

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

===='''Resources'''====

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T02:14:22Z

Toast:

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

== Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair ==

==='''What was covered'''===

====Component Identification and Basic Terminology====

=====What's What on a Bike=====
 
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

=====Drive Side and Non-drive Side=====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

=====How to talk about gearing=====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

=====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading=====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

=====Valves: Schrader and Presta=====

The two types of valves you will see on 99% of bikes in America are schrader and presta. Schrader valves are the same type of valve that you see on cars and most other pneumatic tires. Presta valves are
[[valvetypes.gif]]

====Basic Upkeep====
=====Inflating Tires=====
=====Cleaning and lubing the chain=====

====Flat Repair====

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

====Hands On====

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

===='''Resources'''====

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T02:00:52Z

Toast:

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

== Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair ==

==='''What was covered'''===

====Component Identification and Basic Terminology====

=====What's What on a Bike=====
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

=====Drive Side and Non-drive Side=====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

=====How to talk about gearing=====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

=====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading=====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

=====Valves: Schrader and Presta

====Basic Upkeep====
=====Inflating Tires=====
=====Cleaning and lubing the chain=====

====Flat Repair====

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

====Hands On====

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

===='''Resources'''====

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T01:57:49Z

Toast:

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

== Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair ==

==='''What was covered'''===

====Component Identification and Basic Terminology====

=====What's What on a Bike=====
[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

=====Drive Side and Non-drive Side=====
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

=====How to talk about gearing=====
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

=====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading=====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Basic Upkeep====
=====Inflating Tires=====
=====Cleaning and lubing the chain=====

====Flat Repair====

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

====Hands On====

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

===='''Resources'''====

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T01:54:22Z

Toast: /* Component Identification and Basic Terminology */

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

== Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair ==

==='''What was covered'''===

====Component Identification and Basic Terminology====

[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

'''Drive Side and Non-drive Side'''
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

'''How to talk about gearing'''
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. The inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

====Flat Repair====

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

====Hands On====

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

===='''Resources'''====

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T01:47:45Z

Toast: /* Component Identification and Basic Terminology */

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

== Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair ==

==='''What was covered'''===

====Component Identification and Basic Terminology====

[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

'''Drive Side and Non-drive Side'''
The right side of the bike is referred to as the drive side while the left side is the non-drive side.

'''How to talk about gearing'''
Gears closer to the frame are referred to as ''inner'' gears while the ones furthest from the frame are the ''outer'' gears. High and low in relation to the gears describes the relative mechanical advantage of the gearing. An easy mnemonic for this is '''H'''igher gears are '''h'''arder while lower gears are easier. Also the inner gears on a bike are always going to be the lower gears and the outer gears are the higher gears.

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

====Flat Repair====

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

====Hands On====

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

===='''Resources'''====

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]

Bike Maintenance Class

2011-03-07T01:39:45Z

Toast: /* Resources */

This page will summarize what was gone over in each class and have links to further reading.

== Week 1: Introduction and Flat Repair ==

==='''What was covered'''===

====Component Identification and Basic Terminology====

[[Image:bikediagram.gif]]

'''Drive Side and Non-drive Side'''

'''How to talk about gearing'''

====Right-hand vs Left-hand Threading====

Almost every threaded component on a bike is going to be right-hand threaded, which means that turning it clockwise will tighten it and turning it counter-clockwise will loosen it. Pedals and bottom bracket cups are examples where you would run into left-hand threaded components. To identify the ''handedness'' of a component hold it in front of you as in the picture below. The direction that the threads slant up too corresponds to the components handedness.

[[Image:LineDrawingofLeftandRightHandedSquareThreads.png | 200px]]

Left-handed Right-handed

====Cleaning and lubing the chain====

====Flat Repair====

* Understanding brake and wheel quick release mechanisims
* How to remove a tire with tirelevers
* Identifying puncture source (don't forget to keep everything lined up!)
* Patching

====Hands On====

Repairing flat tires on demo wheels.

===='''Resources'''====

More than you really need to know: [http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html Sheldon Brown Tells All]

[[Category:Bikes]]
[[Category:Classes]]