HacDC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Category:Cube

2015-04-21T02:18:41Z

Nostromo: /* Reset Cartridge Hack */

[[Category:3D_Printing]]
[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:3D_Printers]]
HacDC's Cube 3D Printer. [[File:Cube.jpg|thumb|upright=4|right]]
==Current Machine Status==
''Parts are missing (Feed Tube and USB Key) so the cube is currently out of order'' --[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 17:02, 12 April 2015 (PDT)

==General Info==
Model: 3D Systems Cube 2ND Generation

==Printing Procedures==
'''''Instructions are mostly complete but there are still gaps. If this is your 1st print with this machine you may want to ask one of the 3D printer folks for help (We're usually around on Thursday evenings).'''''--[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 15:44, 11 February 2015 (PST)

===3D File Preparation===
The cube uses proprietary slicer software to convert a ".stl" file to a ".cube" file which is what the cube printer understands.

# Power on the Laptop labelled "THE LAPTOP FOR THE CUBE"
# Open the "Cube Software"
# Import your .stl file
# Settings
::* Raft: Isn't needed as the bed is pretty level
::* Print Mode
::** Hollow: (Quick) The software will print the walls of your model but put only enough infill to keep the model together. Not to be used for structural components.
::** Strong: the software will calculate and print your model to withstnd a moderate amount of stress (arbitrary). The print will have enough infill to fulfill this "strong" requirement
::** Solid: Printer will print your model with 100% infill. Will take the longest amount of time.
# Heal ''(This corrects any missing of difficient triangles in the model so the software can calculate the actual shape of the model)'
# Center
# Build (This will create the the .cube file in the same directory as the .stl file)
# Attach the USB Key and save to the root folder of the thumbdrive

At this point a .cube file has been generated and you're ready to move on to the next step.

===Powering on the Cube===
# Make sure the Cube is located on a level surface and the filament feed tube isn't being bent (By a shelf etc..)
# Make sure the power brick is plugged in all the way
# Press the button just below the screen (Screen should wake up)
# You're almost ready to print

===Before You Start The Print!!===
Make sure you have the following items:
* Elmer's Washable School Glue Stick (Purple Glue Stick)
* Tweezers (Need this to remove the extruder drippings just before the print starts)

====Prep the Print Bed (IMPORTANT)====

# Remove the glass build plate from the cube (Held on with a magnet so it should just pop off)
# Undo the binder clips to remove the mirrored piece of glass (Remember where the binder clips are positioned)
# Wash/dry the mirrored glass in the sink (Be careful as it's fragile and the edges are sharp)
#* if you break the glass don't fret we have replacements. Just make sure to let someone know and record it in the operators log so we know to replace it :-).
# Do a final clean of the mirrored glass using glass cleaner and a paper towel
# Use the glue stick to apply a thin layer of glue to the entire surface of the mirrored glass THOROUGHLY (This is so the plastic will stick but will still be removable when done)
# Reattach the mirrored glass to the build plate with the binder clips
#* Make sure that the clips wont obstruct the movement of the build plate
#* Best place for the clips are on the right side (Front and Back)

===Start the Print===
# Eject the USB Key marked "Cube Firmware" from the Laptop and attach to the cube on the right hand side
# Navigate though the LCD menu and find the file you uploaded
# Select it and your print should start
#* If you see a message about there not being enough filament just ignore it and continue the print (We reload the cartridges so the cartridge capacity indicator is off)
# After about 10? seconds the print head will move to about 1/2" above the build plate
# It will now begin heating up the extruder.
# Use with the tweezers to remove any filament that comes out as it heats up the extruder for about 30? seconds.
# When the head starts moving again remove your hands and tweezers as it's about to start printing
# Now watch the magic begin :-)

===Monitoring the Print===
Now that the cube has started printing it's important to keep an eye on it. If at any time you see an issue please cancel the print by hitting the "Stop" button on the display. Here are some things that are cancel worthy:

* You hear a ticking sound coming from the extruder (Extruder is jammed SEE BELOW)
* The extruder is hitting the binder clips (Clips weren't positioned correctly)
* The extruder is bumping over some plastic that hardened in the wrong place
* The print has obviously failed (Help us save plastic and prevent a mess)
* Anything else that may damage the printer or waste plastic
* When the print finishes please turn off the printer ''(Hold down the button until the cube powers off)''

===Removing the Print from the Build Plate===
You're almost done now it's time for the last step. Removing the print from the build plate.

* Above all be careful when doing the steps below.
** You'll be applying pressure to thin sharp pieces of glass.
** You may want to wear safetly gloves which are located in the safety equipment bin
* Remove the build plate and wash off the glue with warm water from the sink (Takes a while but it does get warm)
* Try to loosen the part from the glass by twising and flexing (Without breaking the part)
* Use a utility knife to GENTLY get under the part and pop it off.

===Please Clean up for Others===
Please do the following procedure so the next person can use the machine
* Wash/dry the build plate/mirrored glass in the sink and put back on the machine
* Put all the tools back in their storage box
* Make sure you shut off the printer by holding down the button for several seconds (''Very Important'')
* If you we're happy with your experience please consider putting a buck or 2 in the tip jar :-)

===Operators Log===
Please provide feedback on our print in the operators log for this printer
[[Cube_Operators_Log]]

==Bed Leveling==
''I level the bed once a week so you really shouldn't need to do this procedure''
* The bed can be leveled through the software.
* There is no need to mechanically level the bed.
* Use a index/business card when going through the leveling procedure.
* You should feel a slight bit of resistance when moving the card in-between the bed and extruder.

==Z Axis Height Adjustment==
This should allow a index/business card to slide freely underneath it without feeling like it's dragging.

==Notes==
===Refilling the Cartridge===
The cartridge is a 2 part circular container for the filament. It is held together with 2 snapping clips. Gently depress them to separate the cartridges hemispheres.
Loosely wind the filament to be used so that the filament can freely exit the cartridge. Visually, this means when you wind it, the end of the filament should be on the same side as the exit tube. Carefully snap the hemispheres back together with roughly 7cm out of the "exit". Be mindful of the guides on the inside of the cartridge when snapping together.
Will post a video later

===Resetting A Cartridge To Full===
====Normal Cartridge Operation====
'' This is just for some insight so you can see what we're going to do ''
# ''''Before Print'''' Printer reads the remaining capacity of the cartridge.
# ''''During Print'''' Printer calculates, using a rotary encoder, the amount of filament used.
# ''''After Print'''' Printer subtracts the amount of filament used and writes it back to the cartridge.

====Reset Cartridge Hack====
Resetting the cartridge means writing the full/nearly full cartridge capacity back to the empty cartridge. Essentially resetting the empty cartridge.

# Load cartridge labelled "Printing Cartridge" (Follow the cube instructions including feeding the filament etc..).
# Remove the "Printing Cartridge" from the cradle while still keeping the filament attached to the cube.
# Plug the cartridge labelled "Recharge Cartridge" into the cradle while keeping the "Printing Cartridge" filament attached.
# read the next couple of steps ahead of time, timing is critical.
# Start a new print and wait for the actual print to start (Not just the heat up).
# Once the new print starts immediately swap the cartridges ("Printing Cartridge" should wind up in the cradle")
#* You'll have about a 7 second window to do the swap. If you see an error about "Hot Swap" don't worry. Just swap the "Recharge Cartridge" back and wait for the error to go away and then repeat the last step.
# Cancel the print (This is optional since you're already using the "Printing Cartridge" filament).
#* Sometime during the cooldown it programs the Cartridge with the remaining filament capacity. Takes about 90 seconds.
# Now check the "Cartridge Status" and you should have a reset cartridge.

===Wifi Doesn't Work===
We had to restore an old firmware to enable us to use our own filament and as a result the Wifi access doesn't work. Your better off just transferring the .cube file to the usb key and printing via the LCD menu.

===Hacks that Make This Thing Work===
Firmware is hacked to ignore filament cartridge life (aka you can refill cartridges)
It is important that the firmware is not altered upgraded or borked.

===Firmware Updates===
Please don't because we'll lose the hack that lets us refill the filament.

Cube Alt Slicer

2015-04-21T02:00:36Z

Nostromo:

[[Category:Cube]]
=Alternate Slicer Instruction (Experimental)=
'''Don't do this until we verify'''

# Open the Kisslicer link on the desktop
# Load your stl
# Slice
# Save (should save with a .bfb ext)
# Open CodeX32 link on the desktop
## Printer: CubePro
## Function: EnCode
## Input File: your.brb
## Output File: youre.cube (cubepro file should work with cube ext)

==References==
You can use a regular slicer and convert it to .cube code
See this [https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/kisslicer-refugee-camp/ZMuIrtn5Mfo Thread]

Here's a [http://www.kisslicertalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=353 Thread] specific to the cube 2

Another [http://cube3d.createaforum.com/general-discussion/alternative-slicer-to-the-cubes-standard-software/ Thread]. This seems to be the latest.

==Troubleshooting Notes==

* Decoding a .cube file generated by cubes software and re-encoding with cubepro setting and then renaming file .cube seems to work. Using cubex setting does not work.
* Setting Filament parameter to -1 does not cause an error
* Setting Time to 0 does not cause an error

Welcome to the HacDC Wiki

2015-04-20T23:41:06Z

Nostromo: /* Cool Stuff Going On Right Now */

[[Category:HacDC_Wiki]]

{{TOCright}}<span style="font-size:large; line-height:1.5em; color:#222">Welcome to HacDC. We are a hacker space located in Washington, DC. HacDC members improve the world by creatively rethinking technology. We break, build, and occasionally abuse technology in the pursuit of greater knowledge about how it works and repurposing it to build new things. Our shop is located in the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Columbia_Heights%2C_Washington%2C_D.C. Columbia Heights] neighborhood of the District of Columbia.</span>

If you're new here, you should start by looking at our public web site at [http://www.hacdc.org/ hacdc.org]. Our Wiki is mostly for internal organization, but you're welcome to look through to get a sense of what we work on (and consider joining yourself!). We invite you to subscribe to our [https://groups.google.com/a/hacdc.org/group/Blabber/topics Blabber] public discussion mailing list.<hr>

<div style="float:left; width:48%;">
=== Cool Stuff Going On Right Now ===

* '''Cambridge Stereoscan 200 Scanning Electron Microscope''' We're restoring an electron microscope. [http://wiki.hacdc.org/index.php/Category:Stereoscan]
* [[3D Printing]] - Lulzbot Mini up and running in the space
* '''Microcontroller Mondays''' (BYO project to work on, get help on, or show off...or just come to check us out! ...usually from 7:30pm on.)
* [[Amateur radio]] '''Ham Radio''' - make stuff, get your license, QSO, test, tinker, learn,...
* '''3D Thursdays''' 3-D printing enthusiasts are on hand and we have 3 printers of various types ...usually from 7:30pm on.)

=== Top Links ===
Themes and threads that span across the other categories in the Wiki. This is also where we keep things that don't easily fit in other categories:

* '''[[Outline]]'''
* [[Batch_III]] Outgoing items
* [[Proposed Standing Rules]]
* [[GettingHere]]
* [[:Category:Meeting Minutes | Meeting Minutes and Agendas]] (next: '''''[[Annual Meeting 2015]]''''')
* [[:Category:Classes | Classes]]
* [[:Category:Hacker Travel | Hacker Travel]]

=== [[:Category:Projects]] ===
Where our projects collaborate and document their research and progress. They are generally classified as:
* [[:Category:Project_Awesome | Project Awesome Projects]]
* [[:Category:Ongoing Projects | Ongoing Projects]]
* [[:Category:Previous Projects | Previous Projects]]
* [[:Category:Proposed Projects | Proposed Projects]]

=== [[:Category:In the Space | Records]] ===
Entries relating to the space including layout and events and classes we hold
* [[:Category:Space Configuration | Configuration]]
* [[:Category:Event Planning | Event Planning]]
* [[:Category:Classes | Classes]]
* [[Wishlist]]
* [[:Category:What_I_Stole | What I Stole]]
* [[Inventory | Inventory]]
* [[Procurement | Procurement]]
* [[Suppliers | Suppliers]]
* [[Whiteboard | Whiteboard]]
</div>

<div style="float:right; width:48%;"> 

=== Events ===

<googlecalendar>?showTitle=0&showNav=0&showPrint=0&showTabs=0&showCalendars=0&mode=AGENDA&height=250&wkst=1&bgcolor=%23FFFFFF&src=uu5p71ump3g23l2mj7cvk2l2tb7girmo%40import.calendar.google.com&color=%23AB8B00&ctz=America%2FNew_York" style=" border:solid 1px #777 " width="500" height="250" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></googlecalendar>

This calendar pulls events from our official [http://www.meetup.com/hac-dc/#calendar Meetup] calendar. Also, see webcal://www.meetup.com/hac-dc/events/ical/ for an ics feed to use with your favorite calendaring software.

=== Past Cool Stuff That Will Happen Again ===

* [[LightningTalks]]
* [[HacDC Summer School]] This aspires to be a yearly beginner-level workshop series giving attendees an introduction to physical computing. Topics for 2013 included integrated circuits kit-soldering, Arduino programming, and working with Processing.org [http://www.meetup.com/hac-dc/events/121563632/ (full description)]. A more integrated curriculum is being planned to roll-in Intro to Electronics, [[Intro to Programming]], [[AVR Microcontroller Class 2011 | AVR programming]], IoT workshops, and more...
* [[Schemers|"Schemers" a Biweekly SICP study group]] meeting on [http://www.meetup.com/hac-dc/events/64832532/ alternate Tuesdays]
* [[TECS | The Elements of Computing Systems: Building a Modern Computer from First Principles]]
* [[IntrotoVisualsforProgrammers | Intro to Visuals for Programmers]]
* [[Electron Tube Class]]
* Max/MSP Workshop
* [[Quantified Self]]
* [[Intro to Programming]]
* [[AVR Microcontroller Class 2011]]
* [[Great Global Hackerspace Challenge]]
* [[Linux Class]]
* [[Bike Maintenance Class]]
* [[HacDC Spaceblimp 5]]
* [[Robotics Class 2011]]

=== [[:Category:Community]] ===
Pages on people in our community :
* [[:Category:Members | Member User Pages]]
* [[:Category:Friends | Friends of HacDC]]
* [[Heroes | Heroes and people who inspire us]]

=== [[:Category:Policy]] ===
Our Policy Manual is divided into the following subcategories:
* [[Articles_of_Incorporation|Articles of Incorporation]]
* [[Bylaws]]
* [[MIBS_Simplified_Rules_of_Coordinated_Consensus_through_Chaos | Meeting Rules]]
* [[Privacy_Policy | Privacy Policy]]
* [[Resource_Use_Policy | Resource Use Policy]]
* [[Resource_Disposal | Resource Disposal Policy]]
* [[:Category:Communications Policy | Communications Policy]]
* [[Licensing_Policy | Licensing Policy]]

=== Extra stuff, buried by wiki cleanup. ===
[[:Category:Obsolete]]

</div>

Category:Cube

2015-04-17T01:29:53Z

Nostromo:

[[Category:3D_Printing]]
[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:3D_Printers]]
HacDC's Cube 3D Printer. [[File:Cube.jpg|thumb|upright=4|right]]
==Current Machine Status==
''Parts are missing (Feed Tube and USB Key) so the cube is currently out of order'' --[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 17:02, 12 April 2015 (PDT)

==General Info==
Model: 3D Systems Cube 2ND Generation

==Printing Procedures==
'''''Instructions are mostly complete but there are still gaps. If this is your 1st print with this machine you may want to ask one of the 3D printer folks for help (We're usually around on Thursday evenings).'''''--[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 15:44, 11 February 2015 (PST)

===3D File Preparation===
The cube uses proprietary slicer software to convert a ".stl" file to a ".cube" file which is what the cube printer understands.

# Power on the Laptop labelled "THE LAPTOP FOR THE CUBE"
# Open the "Cube Software"
# Import your .stl file
# Settings
::* Raft: Isn't needed as the bed is pretty level
::* Print Mode
::** Hollow: (Quick) The software will print the walls of your model but put only enough infill to keep the model together. Not to be used for structural components.
::** Strong: the software will calculate and print your model to withstnd a moderate amount of stress (arbitrary). The print will have enough infill to fulfill this "strong" requirement
::** Solid: Printer will print your model with 100% infill. Will take the longest amount of time.
# Heal ''(This corrects any missing of difficient triangles in the model so the software can calculate the actual shape of the model)'
# Center
# Build (This will create the the .cube file in the same directory as the .stl file)
# Attach the USB Key and save to the root folder of the thumbdrive

At this point a .cube file has been generated and you're ready to move on to the next step.

===Powering on the Cube===
# Make sure the Cube is located on a level surface and the filament feed tube isn't being bent (By a shelf etc..)
# Make sure the power brick is plugged in all the way
# Press the button just below the screen (Screen should wake up)
# You're almost ready to print

===Before You Start The Print!!===
Make sure you have the following items:
* Elmer's Washable School Glue Stick (Purple Glue Stick)
* Tweezers (Need this to remove the extruder drippings just before the print starts)

====Prep the Print Bed (IMPORTANT)====

# Remove the glass build plate from the cube (Held on with a magnet so it should just pop off)
# Undo the binder clips to remove the mirrored piece of glass (Remember where the binder clips are positioned)
# Wash/dry the mirrored glass in the sink (Be careful as it's fragile and the edges are sharp)
#* if you break the glass don't fret we have replacements. Just make sure to let someone know and record it in the operators log so we know to replace it :-).
# Do a final clean of the mirrored glass using glass cleaner and a paper towel
# Use the glue stick to apply a thin layer of glue to the entire surface of the mirrored glass THOROUGHLY (This is so the plastic will stick but will still be removable when done)
# Reattach the mirrored glass to the build plate with the binder clips
#* Make sure that the clips wont obstruct the movement of the build plate
#* Best place for the clips are on the right side (Front and Back)

===Start the Print===
# Eject the USB Key marked "Cube Firmware" from the Laptop and attach to the cube on the right hand side
# Navigate though the LCD menu and find the file you uploaded
# Select it and your print should start
#* If you see a message about there not being enough filament just ignore it and continue the print (We reload the cartridges so the cartridge capacity indicator is off)
# After about 10? seconds the print head will move to about 1/2" above the build plate
# It will now begin heating up the extruder.
# Use with the tweezers to remove any filament that comes out as it heats up the extruder for about 30? seconds.
# When the head starts moving again remove your hands and tweezers as it's about to start printing
# Now watch the magic begin :-)

===Monitoring the Print===
Now that the cube has started printing it's important to keep an eye on it. If at any time you see an issue please cancel the print by hitting the "Stop" button on the display. Here are some things that are cancel worthy:

* You hear a ticking sound coming from the extruder (Extruder is jammed SEE BELOW)
* The extruder is hitting the binder clips (Clips weren't positioned correctly)
* The extruder is bumping over some plastic that hardened in the wrong place
* The print has obviously failed (Help us save plastic and prevent a mess)
* Anything else that may damage the printer or waste plastic
* When the print finishes please turn off the printer ''(Hold down the button until the cube powers off)''

===Removing the Print from the Build Plate===
You're almost done now it's time for the last step. Removing the print from the build plate.

* Above all be careful when doing the steps below.
** You'll be applying pressure to thin sharp pieces of glass.
** You may want to wear safetly gloves which are located in the safety equipment bin
* Remove the build plate and wash off the glue with warm water from the sink (Takes a while but it does get warm)
* Try to loosen the part from the glass by twising and flexing (Without breaking the part)
* Use a utility knife to GENTLY get under the part and pop it off.

===Please Clean up for Others===
Please do the following procedure so the next person can use the machine
* Wash/dry the build plate/mirrored glass in the sink and put back on the machine
* Put all the tools back in their storage box
* Make sure you shut off the printer by holding down the button for several seconds (''Very Important'')
* If you we're happy with your experience please consider putting a buck or 2 in the tip jar :-)

===Operators Log===
Please provide feedback on our print in the operators log for this printer
[[Cube_Operators_Log]]

==Bed Leveling==
''I level the bed once a week so you really shouldn't need to do this procedure''
* The bed can be leveled through the software.
* There is no need to mechanically level the bed.
* Use a index/business card when going through the leveling procedure.
* You should feel a slight bit of resistance when moving the card in-between the bed and extruder.

==Z Axis Height Adjustment==
This should allow a index/business card to slide freely underneath it without feeling like it's dragging.

==Notes==
===Refilling the Cartridge===
The cartridge is a 2 part circular container for the filament. It is held together with 2 snapping clips. Gently depress them to separate the cartridges hemispheres.
Loosely wind the filament to be used so that the filament can freely exit the cartridge. Visually, this means when you wind it, the end of the filament should be on the same side as the exit tube. Carefully snap the hemispheres back together with roughly 7cm out of the "exit". Be mindful of the guides on the inside of the cartridge when snapping together.
Will post a video later

===Resetting A Cartridge To Full===
====Normal Cartridge Operation====
'' This is just for some insight so you can see what we're going to do ''
# ''''Before Print'''' Printer reads the remaining capacity of the cartridge.
# ''''During Print'''' Printer calculates, using a rotary encoder, the amount of filament used.
# ''''After Print'''' Printer subtracts the amount of filament used and writes it back to the cartridge.

====Reset Cartridge Hack====
Resetting the cartridge means writing the full/nearly full cartridge capacity back to the empty cartridge. Essentially resetting the empty cartridge.

'''I haven't personally verified this yet so it's experimental right now'''
# Load cartridge labelled "Printing Cartridge" (Follow the cube instructions including feeding the filament etc..).
# Remove the "Printing Cartridge" from the cradle while still keeping the filament attached to the cube.
# Plug the cartridge labelled "Recharge Cartridge" into the cradle while keeping the "Printing Cartridge" filament attached.
# read the next couple of steps ahead of time, timing is critical.
# Start a new print and wait for the actual print to start (Not just the heat up).
# Once the new print starts immediately swap the cartridges ("Printing Cartridge" should wind up in the cradle")
#* You'll have about a 7 second window to do the swap. If you see an error about "Hot Swap" don't worry. Just swap the "Recharge Cartridge" back and wait for the error to go away and then repeat the last step.
# Cancel the print (This is optional since you're already using the "Printing Cartridge" filament).
#* Sometime during the cooldown it programs the Cartridge with the remaining filament capacity. Takes about 90 seconds.
# Now check the "Cartridge Status" and you should have a reset cartridge.

'''These are the old directions just until I verify the new procedure works'''

To do this,
1.Load a full cartridge into the printer
2. Start new print
3. Once new print starts (not just heating up put starting to print)
4. "Hot Swap" the empty cartridge. This must be done within about 7 seconds, but should not be a problem. If the message "please insert cartridge" message pops up, you must put in the full cartridge back in and start back at the "Hot Swap" once the message disappears.
5. Press the stop button on the touchscreen
6. The print will cancel and proceed to the cool down process. WAIT! This usually take about 90 seconds. At some point during the cool-down, I believe the printer is writing back to the cartridge.
7. When it is done cooling, you can go into the menu and select "Cartridge Status" and the chips capacity should be represented by a "black" horizontal bar. If the bar is "white" then you must repeat the process. FWIW, we have not seen this process fail necessitating doing the process again.
8. Follow the steps for "Loading a New Cartridge" if necessary with the newly "full" cartridge.

===Wifi Doesn't Work===
We had to restore an old firmware to enable us to use our own filament and as a result the Wifi access doesn't work. Your better off just transferring the .cube file to the usb key and printing via the LCD menu.

===Hacks that Make This Thing Work===
Firmware is hacked to ignore filament cartridge life (aka you can refill cartridges)
It is important that the firmware is not altered upgraded or borked.

===Firmware Updates===
Please don't because we'll lose the hack that lets us refill the filament.

2015-04-15T03:19:16Z

Nostromo:

[[Category:3D_Printing]]
[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:3D_Printers]]
HacDC's Cube 3D Printer. [[File:Cube.jpg|thumb|upright=4|right]]
==Current Machine Status==
''Parts are missing (Feed Tube and USB Key) so the cube is currently out of order'' --[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 17:02, 12 April 2015 (PDT)

==General Info==
Model: 3D Systems Cube 2ND Generation

==Printing Procedures==
'''''Instructions are mostly complete but there are still gaps. If this is your 1st print with this machine you may want to ask one of the 3D printer folks for help (We're usually around on Thursday evenings).'''''--[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 15:44, 11 February 2015 (PST)

===3D File Preparation===
The cube uses proprietary slicer software to convert a ".stl" file to a ".cube" file which is what the cube printer understands.

# Power on the Laptop labelled "THE LAPTOP FOR THE CUBE"
# Open the "Cube Software"
# Import your .stl file
# Settings
::* Raft: Isn't needed as the bed is pretty level
::* Print Mode
::** Hollow: (Quick) The software will print the walls of your model but put only enough infill to keep the model together. Not to be used for structural components.
::** Strong: the software will calculate and print your model to withstnd a moderate amount of stress (arbitrary). The print will have enough infill to fulfill this "strong" requirement
::** Solid: Printer will print your model with 100% infill. Will take the longest amount of time.
# Heal ''(This corrects any missing of difficient triangles in the model so the software can calculate the actual shape of the model)'
# Center
# Build (This will create the the .cube file in the same directory as the .stl file)
# Attach the USB Key and save to the root folder of the thumbdrive

At this point a .cube file has been generated and you're ready to move on to the next step.

===Powering on the Cube===
# Make sure the Cube is located on a level surface and the filament feed tube isn't being bent (By a shelf etc..)
# Make sure the power brick is plugged in all the way
# Press the button just below the screen (Screen should wake up)
# You're almost ready to print

===Before You Start The Print!!===
Make sure you have the following items:
* Elmer's Washable School Glue Stick (Purple Glue Stick)
* Tweezers (Need this to remove the extruder drippings just before the print starts)

====Prep the Print Bed (IMPORTANT)====

# Remove the glass build plate from the cube (Held on with a magnet so it should just pop off)
# Undo the binder clips to remove the mirrored piece of glass (Remember where the binder clips are positioned)
# Wash/dry the mirrored glass in the sink (Be careful as it's fragile and the edges are sharp)
#* if you break the glass don't fret we have replacements. Just make sure to let someone know and record it in the operators log so we know to replace it :-).
# Do a final clean of the mirrored glass using glass cleaner and a paper towel
# Use the glue stick to apply a thin layer of glue to the entire surface of the mirrored glass THOROUGHLY (This is so the plastic will stick but will still be removable when done)
# Reattach the mirrored glass to the build plate with the binder clips
#* Make sure that the clips wont obstruct the movement of the build plate
#* Best place for the clips are on the right side (Front and Back)

===Start the Print===
# Eject the USB Key marked "Cube Firmware" from the Laptop and attach to the cube on the right hand side
# Navigate though the LCD menu and find the file you uploaded
# Select it and your print should start
#* If you see a message about there not being enough filament just ignore it and continue the print (We reload the cartridges so the cartridge capacity indicator is off)
# After about 10? seconds the print head will move to about 1/2" above the build plate
# It will now begin heating up the extruder.
# Use with the tweezers to remove any filament that comes out as it heats up the extruder for about 30? seconds.
# When the head starts moving again remove your hands and tweezers as it's about to start printing
# Now watch the magic begin :-)

===Monitoring the Print===
Now that the cube has started printing it's important to keep an eye on it. If at any time you see an issue please cancel the print by hitting the "Stop" button on the display. Here are some things that are cancel worthy:

* You hear a ticking sound coming from the extruder (Extruder is jammed SEE BELOW)
* The extruder is hitting the binder clips (Clips weren't positioned correctly)
* The extruder is bumping over some plastic that hardened in the wrong place
* The print has obviously failed (Help us save plastic and prevent a mess)
* Anything else that may damage the printer or waste plastic
* When the print finishes please turn off the printer ''(Hold down the button until the cube powers off)''

===Removing the Print from the Build Plate===
You're almost done now it's time for the last step. Removing the print from the build plate.

* Above all be careful when doing the steps below.
** You'll be applying pressure to thin sharp pieces of glass.
** You may want to wear safetly gloves which are located in the safety equipment bin
* Remove the build plate and wash off the glue with warm water from the sink (Takes a while but it does get warm)
* Try to loosen the part from the glass by twising and flexing (Without breaking the part)
* Use a utility knife to GENTLY get under the part and pop it off.

===Please Clean up for Others===
Please do the following procedure so the next person can use the machine
* Wash/dry the build plate/mirrored glass in the sink and put back on the machine
* Put all the tools back in their storage box
* Make sure you shut off the printer by holding down the button for several seconds (''Very Important'')
* If you we're happy with your experience please consider putting a buck or 2 in the tip jar :-)

===Operators Log===
Please provide feedback on our print in the operators log for this printer
[[Cube_Operators_Log]]

==Bed Leveling==
''I level the bed once a week so you really shouldn't need to do this procedure''
* The bed can be leveled through the software.
* There is no need to mechanically level the bed.
* Use a index/business card when going through the leveling procedure.
* You should feel a slight bit of resistance when moving the card in-between the bed and extruder.

==Z Axis Height Adjustment==
This should allow a index/business card to slide freely underneath it without feeling like it's dragging.

==Notes==
===Refilling the Cartridge===
The cartridge is a 2 part circular container for the filament. It is held together with 2 snapping clips. Gently depress them to separate the cartridges hemispheres.
Loosely wind the filament to be used so that the filament can freely exit the cartridge. Visually, this means when you wind it, the end of the filament should be on the same side as the exit tube. Carefully snap the hemispheres back together with roughly 7cm out of the "exit". Be mindful of the guides on the inside of the cartridge when snapping together.
Will post a video later

===Resetting A Cartridge To Full===
====Normal Cartridge Operation====
'' This is just for some insight so you can see what we're going to do ''
# ''''Before Print'''' Printer reads the remaining capacity of the cartridge.
# ''''During Print'''' Printer calculates, using a rotary encoder, the amount of filament used.
# ''''After Print'''' Printer subtracts the amount of filament used and writes it back to the cartridge.

====Reset Cartridge Hack====
Resetting the cartridge means writing the full/nearly full cartridge capacity back to the empty cartridge. Essentially resetting the empty cartridge.

'''I haven't personally verified this yet so it's experimental right now'''
# Load cartridge labelled "Printing Cartridge" (Follow the cube instructions including feeding the filament etc..).
# Remove the "Printing Cartridge" from the cradle while still keeping the filament attached to the cube.
# Plug the cartridge labelled "Recharge Cartridge" into the cradle while keeping the "Printing Cartridge" filament attached.
# read the next couple of steps ahead of time, timing is critical.
# Start a new print and wait for the actual print to start (Not just the heat up).
# Once the new print starts immediately swap the cartridges ("Printing Cartridge" should wind up in the cradle")
#* You'll have about a 7 second window to do the swap. If you see an error about "Hot Swap" don't worry. Just swap the "Recharge Cartridge" back and wait for the error to go away and then repeat the last step.
# Cancel the print (This is optional since you're already using the "Printing Cartridge" filament).
#* Sometime during the cooldown it programs the Cartridge with the remaining filament capacity. Takes about 90 seconds.
# Now check the "Cartridge Status" and you should have a reset cartridge.

'''These are the old directions just until I verify the new procedure works'''

To do this,
1.Load a full cartridge into the printer
2. Start new print
3. Once new print starts (not just heating up put starting to print)
4. "Hot Swap" the empty cartridge. This must be done within about 7 seconds, but should not be a problem. If the message "please insert cartridge" message pops up, you must put in the full cartridge back in and start back at the "Hot Swap" once the message disappears.
5. Press the stop button on the touchscreen
6. The print will cancel and proceed to the cool down process. WAIT! This usually take about 90 seconds. At some point during the cool-down, I believe the printer is writing back to the cartridge.
7. When it is done cooling, you can go into the menu and select "Cartridge Status" and the chips capacity should be represented by a "black" horizontal bar. If the bar is "white" then you must repeat the process. FWIW, we have not seen this process fail necessitating doing the process again.
8. Follow the steps for "Loading a New Cartridge" if necessary with the newly "full" cartridge.

===Wifi Doesn't Work===
We had to restore an old firmware to enable us to use our own filament and as a result the Wifi access doesn't work. Your better off just transferring the .cube file to the usb key and printing via the LCD menu.

===Hacks that Make This Thing Work===
Firmware is hacked to ignore filament cartridge life (aka you can refill cartridges)
It is important that the firmware is not altered upgraded or borked.

===Firmware Updates===
Please don't because we'll lose the hack that lets us refill the filament.

===Experimental===
You can use a regular slicer and convert it to .cube code
See this [https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=fr#!topic/kisslicer-refugee-camp/ZMuIrtn5Mfo|Thread]

Category:LulzBotMini

2015-04-13T02:23:41Z

Nostromo: /* Removing the Print from the Build Plate */

Mini Operators Log

2015-04-13T02:21:11Z

Nostromo: Created page with "=LulzBot Mini Operators Log= Printed Reprap Wilson Y-Belt Clamp in purple HIPS. No issues to report. --~~~~"

=LulzBot Mini Operators Log=

Printed Reprap Wilson Y-Belt Clamp in purple HIPS. No issues to report. --[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 19:21, 12 April 2015 (PDT)

2015-02-11T21:49:58Z

Nostromo:

[[Category:Cube]]
'''When you use the Cube, please add notes here. Newest at top.'''

* James reports: Printer is operating well. There is slight warping of larger 4 inch parts on the corners but prints complete successfully. The part I was printing failed in a strange way (printed part was missing a geometric section). This might be due to forgetting to run heal in the software. Also when transferring the .cube file to the printer just use the USB key as it is far more reliable than the wifi. --[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 13:49, 11 February 2015 (PST)

* James reports: Performed Bed Leveling procedure (Ugh!!). Printing Wilson Piecemeal Y Idler. The print looks a little smooshed on the bottom. Consider recalibrating Z a little higher. --[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 17:36, 5 February 2015 (PST)

* James reports: Printed 2nd part on this printer. Reset Z axis to 1.60z so that it wouldn't smoosh the part as much. seemes to have worked but has a little bit of warping of the edges of the 5" part I was printing. Removing the part is requiring long times in a water bath to permeate the glue underneath --[[User:Nostromo|Nostromo]] ([[User talk:Nostromo|talk]]) 16:01, 8 February 2015 (PST)

Category:RostockMax

2015-02-11T21:45:08Z

Nostromo:

[[Category:3D_Printing]]
[[Category:Equipment]]
[[Category:3D_Printers]]
Using the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock_MAX Rostock MAX]

=Current Machine Status=
Operational. Please watch carefully and do not operate unattended until a longer track record with current electronics has developed.

=Operation=
==Firing Up==
#Go through the [[#Routine Maintenance - ALWAYS CHECK|routine maintenance list]] as necessary, especially the safety section.
#Ensure power is available (ie. turn on the nearby power strip, etc).
#Open [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun/blob/master/README.md Pronterface]. Start heating the glass bed if you don't want to wait later.

==File Preparation==
#Load an STL model onto the dedicated laptop for printing. If you haven't made one, download one from [http://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse].
#On rare occasion, it is necessary to clean the STL model, or align it to the print surface. In [http://www.netfabb.com/stl_repair_fixing.php Nefabb], click the red "+", "Automatic repair", "Default repair", "Apply repair", "Yes" - remove old part. Finally, export part as STL, repairing more errors if prompted.
#Open [http://manual.slic3r.org/ Slic3r]. Load the STL file.
#Recommended print settings: "PLA (Cheap)" "Filament: PLA" "Printer: PLA" . Change these if necessary (eg. strong mechanical parts need more infill).
#Export G-Code in Slic3r.
#Print G-Code in Pronterface. SD Card printing highly recommended.

==Printing==
#With luck, printing should commence autonomously without flaws. Two common problems are inadequate adhesion (resolved by print surface cleaning and possibly hairspray) or bed alignment (resolved through a rather complex alignment process). See the routine maintenance section.
#Wait for bed to cool. Part should lift right off the bed once cool. If not, apply gentle hammer taps with sharp pointy tool to the base of your object. After a few gentle taps in various places, it will pop off the bed cleanly. Carefully, please avoid chipping or cracking the glass.

=Tips=
*Instead of using Proterface, consider just copying the G-Code to the SD card, and using the LCD interface only.
*Unusually high temperatures are required to compensate limited extruder pressure and heatbed efficiency. For PLA, 198degC extrusion and 120degC heatbed temperatures seem appropriate and normal. For ABS, 230-250degC extrusion and 140degC heatbed temperatures may be normal.

=Routine Maintenance - ALWAYS CHECK=
==FIRE HAZARDS==
*Leaving the printer operating unattended is not recommended, especially for new users unfamiliar with the technology. We do not yet have a long track record with this machine.
*Turn off both the printer and 24v Heatbed PSU before leaving, using the dedicated power strip.
*Watch the machine closely during startup, at the beginning of jobs, and other critical times, when uncontrolled heating might occur.

==Bed Cleaning==
*Bare glass bed must be extremely clean. If bed is level to within 0.15mm, and plastic is not sticking, it needs cleaning. Windex, diswashing soap, razor blades, and elbow grease are appropriate resources.
*Certain hairspray has been reported to improve adhesion in some cases.

==Leveling==
===Tips===
* Specialized G-Code is needed test nozzle height at each tower, as documented in the manual.
* Buttons are available in pronterface for 'tower1', 'tower2', 'tower3' and 'center'.
* Horizontal radius can be set with the following, where 128.850 is the desired value: M206 T3 P855 X128.850
* Use paper sheets to measure gap between nozzle and glass.
* Gap should be 0.15mm across the entire glass surface, exact to +/-0.03mm.
* Warping is not known to occur with this particular print surface, so radical modifications should not be necessary. Do not attempt replacement without a second expert opinion.
* Exact alignment is possible, and well worth the hassle. Less accurate alignment quickly leads to major print errors (particularly loss of adhesion).
* The plastic delta arms are primarily responsible for loss of alignment, so any external forces placed on the extruder platform may force re-calibration.
* Multiple rounds of adjustment will be required, as delta bot geometry is interdependent. Do not attempt perfect alignment in one step.
* With practice, perfect calibration can be achieved in about 5 minutes.

===Process===
# If alignment may be far off (ie. major maintenance has been performed on the machine), set the Z0 coordinate at least 3mm away from the surface.
# Move nozzle to the first tower. Adjust nozzle height by turning the carriage-mounted limit switch adjustment screw slightly (<1/4 turn).
# Repeat as necessary to approximately align the gap between nozzle and glass.
# Make one alignment round through all three towers, proceeding clockwise.
# Check the center alignment. Increase the horizontal radius EEPROM setting by 0.5mm if higher than the edges, decrease if lower.
# Repeat the above two steps. After the first 4-5 passes, only very fine adjustments should be needed. Just 10 passes should suffice for perfect alignment.
# Move to center, set the Z0 coordinate just 0.15mm above the surface. Check one more time for an equal gap at all tower positions.

===Support===
While this process is far superior to the temperamental compression screws and free-floating PCB heaters used on most 3D printers, it still takes practice. Newcommers considering these steps should contact experts like juri and mirage335 at HacDC's IRC channel.

=Please Avoid=
You are adding to the workload on a shared machine. Please be gentle.
*Avoid fouling the glass bed, which must be absolutely clean for adhesion.
*Bed temperatures above 120degC should not be needed for PLA.
*Don't crash the Z-Axis into the glass surface, it will shatter.
*Removing parts from glass bed before cooling completes, or getting fingers on the bed leaves residue and necessitates cleaning or worse.
*Try not to touch the extruder platform or plastic arms, as this may force recalibration.
*Operation from battery backup and SD card strongly recommended for reliability.

===Documentation===
Software load is hosted on [https://github.com/HacDC/RostockMax github]. Additionally, SeeMeCNC provides a detailed construction/user [http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax/Rostock-MAX-Assembly-Guide.pdf manual].

=Pricing=
'''Free of charge''' for dues-paying members using reasonable quantities of filament (<0.5kG or <50m per month average).

'''Newcomers''' to the space are '''freely invited''' to lightly use the 3D printer use for small projects, or education.

Non-members regularly using the 3D printer are politely requested to donate approximately $0.50 per meter of filament, as estimated by pronterface when loading g-code.

If the printer breaks dramatically while you are using it, don't fret. We have replacement parts, budget, and talent to repair it.

These supplies and others, are funded by membership dues when revenue exceeds operating expenditures (ie. rent), according to Project Awesome rules.

=Improvements=

==24v PSU==
Design files are stored at HacDC's github repository.
https://github.com/HacDC/RostockMax/tree/master/PSU
[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/HacDC/RostockMax/master/PSU/Schematic/RostockMax24vPSU.sch.png Schematic]
[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/HacDC/RostockMax/master/PSU/BOM.txt BOM]

Internal 12V operation is still possible, and will be connectorized soon.