HacDC Wiki - User contributions [en]

Prusa Mendel Documentation

2011-09-13T20:08:40Z

Lj: /* To do */

A new reprap printer will built along the lines of the Prusa Mendel. You can find details of the Prusa design at the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa Prusa Mendel page] on the reprap wiki, or you can [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel view the sources for the Prusa at github][[File:Prusa_Mendel_Frame.jpg|350px|right]]

=Intro=
Having another 3d printer in the space will allow us to always have a working machine and to use one machine to help fix another if there are problems. It will also enable several people to print things out at the same time. The goal is to document this build so others can make their own printer following our documentation.

=Status=
Frame is built! Next up: axes. And we have electronics, mobo flashed with sprinter fw, use pronterface to interface with it. Have to wire in steppers to finish.

=Materials for the build=
===BOM for Prusa Mendel===
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"
|-
! scope="col" | Quantity
! scope="col" | Description
! scope="col" | Type
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments
|-
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washers || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / or use M5x20
|-
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 8 || M3×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 25mm or use as is
|-
| 8 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 50mm or use 35mm
|-
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener || READY
|-
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings || READY
|-
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side - READY (Thanks Mark!)
|-
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear - READY 4 x 340 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom - READY
|-
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew - READY 2 x 300 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or bolt for X idler - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×420mm || Smooth rod || X-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar - READY
|-
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet || (space)
|-
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet || space
|-
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper || READY
|-
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc || READY
|-
| 1 || Wade's Geared Extruder || || READY
|-
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || READY (though I, Xaq, am still curious about TinyG...)
|-
| 1 || Printed parts || || READY
|}

===John===
1x gen3 mobo
2x gen3 EC
5x steppers
4x stepper controllers (we'll have to pull these from the cupcake and have the cupcake use the mbi ones)
1x p4ac 4 axis stepper controller carrier board (we'll have to pull this from the cupcake too)
1x wade's extruder (assembled and working)
1x 36mm brass barrel
1x 0.5mm mbi nozzle
1x 0.5mm makergear bighead nozzle
Insulator materials (have to make and document on lathe)
nuts/bolts/washers - I have tons
plywood/mdf for build platform

===Heated Build Platform===
If we want it, can get away with some other hacks if we want, or leave it out altogether.
==Offers==
Alden has a Tiny G board... this is attractive

=How to flash firmware=
download arduino18 from arduino.cc (sanguino extensions appear to only work with 18) http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
download the sanguino extensions from sanguino.cc http://sanguino.cc/useit
unzip the arduino package
unzip the sanguino package and copy contents to the hardware folder in the arduino folder you unzipped.
get the latest sprinter fw from https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter
fire up arduino and load the sprinter sketch
edit the configuration.h file to list a motherboard type of 21
plug in the gen3+ motherboard to your laptop with a usb-ttl ftdi cable.
set the board to sanguino in the tools in arduino.
set the serial to the port in use by the ftdi cable
save/compile/upload the sketch

=How to connect and control the printer=
Download printrun from https://github.com/kliment/Printrun
make sure you have python installed, or follow instructions at the url above
fire up pronterface.py
set the serial port to the one used by ftdi cable
click connect to printer button
you should see confirmation of printer connection in the monitor box on the right
load stl and slice it with sfact in the gui, or load up a gcode file you're already processed. SD printing should work too.

=To do=
'''PSU:''' ''Done'' The electronics need an ATX supply (200W minimum probably, 350-700W+ would be needed if we run a heated bed) to power the mobo, and we'll need to hack out a 12V and a 5V line to connect up to the larger perfboard electronics that run the extruder/heatbed (these should be on a 12v2 rail on newer psu). I've got some connectors to do this the next time I'm in the space, or we can just cut the connectors off of the atx wires.
'''Steppers:''' The P4AC 4 axis board will need to be pulled from the cupcake, and the XYZ connected to the mobo. (we'll need another 10pin idc cable. the current rainbow cable on the gen3plus setup is the X stepper cable from the cupcake stepper controller and will have to go back once we swap out the p4ac to the mendel. I have some 10pin idc cables at home I will bring in to replace the one in the gen3plus) I have the 4th pololu in the larger perfboard, but I can easily drop in a 10pin idc header so that we can have all the pololus on the one board, which I'll do the next time I'm in the space.
'''Mosfets:''' tip120 replacements are attached to the board in case the current ones die or if someone has time to do the replacement. The Nchannel Power Mosfets on the larger perfboard were ones I got from radioshack, so I'm not sure if they'll be able to run the heated bed, but they should be fine for the extruder. I have proper 50V 10A mosfets I can swap in place the next time I'm in the space or if the ones in there right now fail.
'''Motor Connections:''' The motor wires need to be connected to the pololus. Any 4 conductor cable should work fine. I have solid core 4 conductor wire I used on my bot at home, but the single conductor is a bit fragile and I'd recommend a nice stranded set instead. I have matching molex connectors and crimps so the connection to the p4ac board is via a plugged connector instead of soldered in or done with some other hacked connector.
'''Endstops:''' The ends stops need to be hooked up. The p4ac board has breakouts for the endstops, so just need to wire up microswitches on to that board. only need two wires to each switch, signal to the COMmon contact and GND to the NO (normally open) contact, the firmware uses internal pullups for the endstop pins.

Prusa Mendel Documentation

2011-09-06T14:24:10Z

Lj: /* How to flash firmware */

A new reprap printer will built along the lines of the Prusa Mendel. You can find details of the Prusa design at the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa Prusa Mendel page] on the reprap wiki, or you can [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel view the sources for the Prusa at github][[File:Prusa_Mendel_Frame.jpg|350px|right]]

=Intro=
Having another 3d printer in the space will allow us to always have a working machine and to use one machine to help fix another if there are problems. It will also enable several people to print things out at the same time. The goal is to document this build so others can make their own printer following our documentation.

=Status=
Frame is built! Next up: axes. And we have electronics, mobo flashed with sprinter fw, use pronterface to interface with it. Have to wire in steppers to finish.

=Materials for the build=
===BOM for Prusa Mendel===
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"
|-
! scope="col" | Quantity
! scope="col" | Description
! scope="col" | Type
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments
|-
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washers || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / or use M5x20
|-
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 8 || M3×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 25mm or use as is
|-
| 8 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 50mm or use 35mm
|-
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener || READY
|-
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings || READY
|-
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side - READY (Thanks Mark!)
|-
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear - READY 4 x 340 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom - READY
|-
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew - READY 2 x 300 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or bolt for X idler - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×420mm || Smooth rod || X-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar - READY
|-
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet || (space)
|-
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet || space
|-
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper || READY
|-
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc || READY
|-
| 1 || Wade's Geared Extruder || || READY
|-
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || READY (though I, Xaq, am still curious about TinyG...)
|-
| 1 || Printed parts || || READY
|}

===John===
1x gen3 mobo
2x gen3 EC
5x steppers
4x stepper controllers (we'll have to pull these from the cupcake and have the cupcake use the mbi ones)
1x p4ac 4 axis stepper controller carrier board (we'll have to pull this from the cupcake too)
1x wade's extruder (assembled and working)
1x 36mm brass barrel
1x 0.5mm mbi nozzle
1x 0.5mm makergear bighead nozzle
Insulator materials (have to make and document on lathe)
nuts/bolts/washers - I have tons
plywood/mdf for build platform

===Heated Build Platform===
If we want it, can get away with some other hacks if we want, or leave it out altogether.
==Offers==
Alden has a Tiny G board... this is attractive

=How to flash firmware=
download arduino18 from arduino.cc (sanguino extensions appear to only work with 18) http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
download the sanguino extensions from sanguino.cc http://sanguino.cc/useit
unzip the arduino package
unzip the sanguino package and copy contents to the hardware folder in the arduino folder you unzipped.
get the latest sprinter fw from https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter
fire up arduino and load the sprinter sketch
edit the configuration.h file to list a motherboard type of 21
plug in the gen3+ motherboard to your laptop with a usb-ttl ftdi cable.
set the board to sanguino in the tools in arduino.
set the serial to the port in use by the ftdi cable
save/compile/upload the sketch

=How to connect and control the printer=
Download printrun from https://github.com/kliment/Printrun
make sure you have python installed, or follow instructions at the url above
fire up pronterface.py
set the serial port to the one used by ftdi cable
click connect to printer button
you should see confirmation of printer connection in the monitor box on the right
load stl and slice it with sfact in the gui, or load up a gcode file you're already processed. SD printing should work too.

=To do=
'''PSU:''' ''Done'' The electronics need an ATX supply (200W minimum probably, 350-700W+ would be needed if we run a heated bed) to power the mobo, and we'll need to hack out a 12V and a 5V line to connect up to the larger perfboard electronics that run the extruder/heatbed (these should be on a 12v2 rail on newer psu). I've got some connectors to do this the next time I'm in the space, or we can just cut the connectors off of the atx wires.
'''Steppers:''' The P4AC 4 axis board will need to be pulled from the cupcake, and the XYZ connected to the mobo. (we'll need another 10pin idc cable. the current rainbow cable on the gen3plus setup is the X stepper cable from the cupcake stepper controller and will have to go back once we swap out the p4ac to the mendel. I have some 10pin idc cables at home I will bring in to replace the one in the gen3plus) I have the 4th pololu in the larger perfboard, but I can easily drop in a 10pin idc header so that we can have all the pololus on the one board, which I'll do the next time I'm in the space.
'''Mosfets:''' The Nchannel Power Mosfets on the larger perfboard were ones I got from radioshack, so I'm not sure if they'll be able to run the heated bed, but they should be fine for the extruder. I have proper 50V 10A mosfets I can swap in place the next time I'm in the space or if the ones in there right now fail.
'''Motor Connections:''' The motor wires need to be connected to the pololus. Any 4 conductor cable should work fine. I have solid core 4 conductor wire I used on my bot at home, but the single conductor is a bit fragile and I'd recommend a nice stranded set instead. I have matching molex connectors and crimps so the connection to the p4ac board is via a plugged connector instead of soldered in or done with some other hacked connector.
'''Endstops:''' The ends stops need to be hooked up. The p4ac board has breakouts for the endstops, so just need to wire up microswitches on to that board. only need two wires to each switch, signal to the COMmon contact and GND to the NO (normally open) contact, the firmware uses internal pullups for the endstop pins.

Prusa Mendel Documentation

2011-09-02T02:39:45Z

Lj:

A new reprap printer will built along the lines of the Prusa Mendel. You can find details of the Prusa design at the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa Prusa Mendel page] on the reprap wiki, or you can [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel view the sources for the Prusa at github][[File:Prusa_Mendel_Frame.jpg|350px|right]]

=Intro=
Having another 3d printer in the space will allow us to always have a working machine and to use one machine to help fix another if there are problems. It will also enable several people to print things out at the same time. The goal is to document this build so others can make their own printer following our documentation.

=Status=
Frame is built! Next up: axes. And we have electronics, mobo flashed with sprinter fw, use pronterface to interface with it. Have to wire in steppers to finish.

=Materials for the build=
===BOM for Prusa Mendel===
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"
|-
! scope="col" | Quantity
! scope="col" | Description
! scope="col" | Type
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments
|-
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washers || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / or use M5x20
|-
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 8 || M3×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 25mm or use as is
|-
| 8 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 50mm or use 35mm
|-
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener || READY
|-
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings || READY
|-
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side - READY (Thanks Mark!)
|-
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear - READY 4 x 340 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom - READY
|-
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew - READY 2 x 300 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or bolt for X idler - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×420mm || Smooth rod || X-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar - READY
|-
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet || (space)
|-
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet || space
|-
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper || READY
|-
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc || READY
|-
| 1 || Wade's Geared Extruder || || READY
|-
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || READY (though I, Xaq, am still curious about TinyG...)
|-
| 1 || Printed parts || || READY
|}

===John===
1x gen3 mobo
2x gen3 EC
5x steppers
4x stepper controllers (we'll have to pull these from the cupcake and have the cupcake use the mbi ones)
1x p4ac 4 axis stepper controller carrier board (we'll have to pull this from the cupcake too)
1x wade's extruder (assembled and working)
1x 36mm brass barrel
1x 0.5mm mbi nozzle
1x 0.5mm makergear bighead nozzle
Insulator materials (have to make and document on lathe)
nuts/bolts/washers - I have tons
plywood/mdf for build platform

===Heated Build Platform===
If we want it, can get away with some other hacks if we want, or leave it out altogether.
==Offers==
Alden has a Tiny G board... this is attractive

=How to flash firmware=
download arduino18 from arduino.cc (sanguino extensions appear to only work with 18)
download the sanguino extensions from sanguino.cc
unzip the arduino package
unzip the sanguino package and copy contents to the hardware folder in the arduino folder you unzipped.
get the latest sprinter fw from https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter
fire up arduino and load the sprinter sketch
edit the configuration.h file to list a motherboard type of 21
plug in the gen3+ motherboard to your laptop with a usb-ttl ftdi cable.
set the board to sanguino in the tools in arduino.
set the serial to the port in use by the ftdi cable
save/compile/upload the sketch

=How to connect and control the printer=
Download printrun from https://github.com/kliment/Printrun
make sure you have python installed, or follow instructions at the url above
fire up pronterface.py
set the serial port to the one used by ftdi cable
click connect to printer button
you should see confirmation of printer connection in the monitor box on the right
load stl and slice it with sfact in the gui, or load up a gcode file you're already processed. SD printing should work too.

=To do=
'''PSU:''' ''Done'' The electronics need an ATX supply (200W minimum probably, 350-700W+ would be needed if we run a heated bed) to power the mobo, and we'll need to hack out a 12V and a 5V line to connect up to the larger perfboard electronics that run the extruder/heatbed (these should be on a 12v2 rail on newer psu). I've got some connectors to do this the next time I'm in the space, or we can just cut the connectors off of the atx wires.
'''Steppers:''' The P4AC 4 axis board will need to be pulled from the cupcake, and the XYZ connected to the mobo. (we'll need another 10pin idc cable. the current rainbow cable on the gen3plus setup is the X stepper cable from the cupcake stepper controller and will have to go back once we swap out the p4ac to the mendel. I have some 10pin idc cables at home I will bring in to replace the one in the gen3plus) I have the 4th pololu in the larger perfboard, but I can easily drop in a 10pin idc header so that we can have all the pololus on the one board, which I'll do the next time I'm in the space.
'''Mosfets:''' The Nchannel Power Mosfets on the larger perfboard were ones I got from radioshack, so I'm not sure if they'll be able to run the heated bed, but they should be fine for the extruder. I have proper 50V 10A mosfets I can swap in place the next time I'm in the space or if the ones in there right now fail.
'''Motor Connections:''' The motor wires need to be connected to the pololus. Any 4 conductor cable should work fine. I have solid core 4 conductor wire I used on my bot at home, but the single conductor is a bit fragile and I'd recommend a nice stranded set instead. I have matching molex connectors and crimps so the connection to the p4ac board is via a plugged connector instead of soldered in or done with some other hacked connector.
'''Endstops:''' The ends stops need to be hooked up. The p4ac board has breakouts for the endstops, so just need to wire up microswitches on to that board. only need two wires to each switch, signal to the COMmon contact and GND to the NO (normally open) contact, the firmware uses internal pullups for the endstop pins.

Prusa Mendel Documentation

2011-08-30T02:26:12Z

Lj:

A new reprap printer will built along the lines of the Prusa Mendel. You can find details of the Prusa design at the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa Prusa Mendel page] on the reprap wiki, or you can [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel view the sources for the Prusa at github][[File:Prusa_Mendel_Frame.jpg|350px|right]]

=Intro=
Having another 3d printer in the space will allow us to always have a working machine and to use one machine to help fix another if there are problems. It will also enable several people to print things out at the same time. The goal is to document this build so others can make their own printer following our documentation.

=Status=
Frame is built! Next up: axes. And we have electronics, mobo flashed with sprinter fw, use pronterface to interface with it. Have to wire in steppers to finish.

=Materials for the build=
===BOM for Prusa Mendel===
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"
|-
! scope="col" | Quantity
! scope="col" | Description
! scope="col" | Type
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments
|-
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washers || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / or use M5x20
|-
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 8 || M3×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 25mm or use as is
|-
| 8 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 50mm or use 35mm
|-
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener || READY
|-
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings || READY
|-
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side - READY (Thanks Mark!)
|-
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear - READY 4 x 340 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom - READY
|-
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew - READY 2 x 300 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or bolt for X idler - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×420mm || Smooth rod || X-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar - READY
|-
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet || (space)
|-
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet || space
|-
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper || READY
|-
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc || READY
|-
| 1 || Wade's Geared Extruder || || READY
|-
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || READY (though I, Xaq, am still curious about TinyG...)
|-
| 1 || Printed parts || || READY
|}

===John===
1x gen3 mobo
2x gen3 EC
5x steppers
4x stepper controllers (we'll have to pull these from the cupcake and have the cupcake use the mbi ones)
1x p4ac 4 axis stepper controller carrier board (we'll have to pull this from the cupcake too)
1x wade's extruder (assembled and working)
1x 36mm brass barrel
1x 0.5mm mbi nozzle
1x 0.5mm makergear bighead nozzle
Insulator materials (have to make and document on lathe)
nuts/bolts/washers - I have tons
plywood/mdf for build platform

===Heated Build Platform===
If we want it, can get away with some other hacks if we want, or leave it out altogether.
==Offers==
Alden has a Tiny G board... this is attractive

=How to flash firmware=
download arduino18 from arduino.cc (sanguino extensions appear to only work with 18)
download the sanguino extensions from sanguino.cc
unzip the arduino package
unzip the sanguino package and copy contents to the hardware folder in the arduino folder you unzipped.
get the latest sprinter fw from https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter
fire up arduino and load the sprinter sketch
edit the configuration.h file to list a motherboard type of 21
plug in the gen3+ motherboard to your laptop with a usb-ttl ftdi cable.
set the board to sanguino in the tools in arduino.
set the serial to the port in use by the ftdi cable
save/compile/upload the sketch

=How to connect and control the printer=
Download printrun from https://github.com/kliment/Printrun
make sure you have python installed, or follow instructions at the url above
fire up pronterface.py
set the serial port to the one used by ftdi cable
click connect to printer button
you should see confirmation of printer connection in the monitor box on the right
load stl and slice it with sfact in the gui, or load up a gcode file you're already processed. SD printing should work too.

=To do=
'''PSU:''' The electronics need an ATX supply (200W minimum probably, 350-700W+ would be needed if we run a heated bed) to power the mobo, and we'll need to hack out a 12V and a 5V line to connect up to the larger perfboard electronics that run the extruder/heatbed (these should be on a 12v2 rail on newer psu). I've got some connectors to do this the next time I'm in the space, or we can just cut the connectors off of the atx wires.
'''Steppers:''' The P4AC 4 axis board will need to be pulled from the cupcake, and the XYZ connected to the mobo. (we'll need another 10pin idc cable. the current rainbow cable on the gen3plus setup is the X stepper cable from the cupcake stepper controller and will have to go back once we swap out the p4ac to the mendel. I have some 10pin idc cables at home I will bring in to replace the one in the gen3plus) I have the 4th pololu in the larger perfboard, but I can easily drop in a 10pin idc header so that we can have all the pololus on the one board, which I'll do the next time I'm in the space.
'''Mosfets:''' The Nchannel Power Mosfets on the larger perfboard were ones I got from radioshack, so I'm not sure if they'll be able to run the heated bed, but they should be fine for the extruder. I have proper 50V 10A mosfets I can swap in place the next time I'm in the space or if the ones in there right now fail.
'''Motor Connections:''' The motor wires need to be connected to the pololus. Any 4 conductor cable should work fine. I have solid core 4 conductor wire I used on my bot at home, but the single conductor is a bit fragile and I'd recommend a nice stranded set instead. I have matching molex connectors and crimps so the connection to the p4ac board is via a plugged connector instead of soldered in or done with some other hacked connector.
'''Endstops:''' The ends stops need to be hooked up. The p4ac board has breakouts for the endstops, so just need to wire up microswitches on to that board. only need two wires to each switch, signal to the COMmon contact and GND to the NO (normally open) contact, the firmware uses internal pullups for the endstop pins.

Prusa Mendel Documentation

2011-08-24T14:04:00Z

Lj:

A new reprap printer will built along the lines of the Prusa Mendel. You can find details of the Prusa design at the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa Prusa Mendel page] on the reprap wiki, or you can [https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel view the sources for the Prusa at github][[File:Prusa_Mendel_Frame.jpg|350px|right]]

=Intro=
Having another 3d printer in the space will allow us to always have a working machine and to use one machine to help fix another if there are problems. It will also enable several people to print things out at the same time. The goal is to document this build so others can make their own printer following our documentation.

=Status=
Frame is built! Next up: axes. And we have electronics.

=Materials for the build=
===BOM for Prusa Mendel===
{| class="wikitable sortable" border="1"
|-
! scope="col" | Quantity
! scope="col" | Description
! scope="col" | Type
! scope="col" class="unsortable" | Comments
|-
| 83 || M8 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 93 || M8 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×30 mudguard / fender washers || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M4×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / or use M5x20
|-
| 2 || M4 nut || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 2 || M4 washer || Fastener || (John) / or use M5
|-
| 22 || M3×10 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 8 || M3×20 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 25mm or use as is
|-
| 8 || M3×25 bolt || Fastener || READY
|-
| 4 || M3×40 bolt || Fastener || (John) / cut down 50mm or use 35mm
|-
| 70 || M3 washer || Fastener || READY
|-
| 40 || M3 nut || Fastener || READY
|-
| 2 || M3 grub screw / set screw || Fastener || READY
|-
| 3 || 608 roller skate / inline skate / skateboard bearing || Bearings || READY
|-
| 4 || ballpoint pen springs || Spring || READY
|-
| 6 || M8×370mm || Threaded rod || 3 per side - READY (Thanks Mark!)
|-
| 4 || M8×294mm || Threaded rod || front / rear - READY 4 x 340 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 3 || M8×440mm || Threaded rod || top / bottom - READY
|-
| 2 || M8×210mm || Threaded rod || Z-leadscrew - READY 2 x 300 (Needs cutting)
|-
| 1 || M8×50mm || Threaded rod || or bolt for X idler - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×420mm || Smooth rod || X-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×406mm || Smooth rod || Y-bar - READY
|-
| 2 || 8mm×350mm || Smooth rod || Z-bar - READY
|-
| 1 || 225mm×225mm print top plate || Thick Sheet || (space)
|-
| 1 || 140mm×225mm print bottom plate || Thick Sheet || space
|-
| 1 || 840mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 1 || 1380mm×5mm T5 pitch timing belt || Belt || READY
|-
| 5 || NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor || Stepper || READY
|-
| 50 || small cable binder / ziptie || Misc || READY
|-
| 1 || Wade's Geared Extruder || || READY
|-
| 1 || Electronics + endstops || || READY (though I, Xaq, am still curious about TinyG...)
|-
| 1 || Printed parts || || READY
|}

===John===
1x gen3 mobo
2x gen3 EC
5x steppers
4x stepper controllers (we'll have to pull these from the cupcake and have the cupcake use the mbi ones)
1x p4ac 4 axis stepper controller carrier board (we'll have to pull this from the cupcake too)
1x wade's extruder (assembled and working)
1x 36mm brass barrel
1x 0.5mm mbi nozzle
1x 0.5mm makergear bighead nozzle
Insulator materials (have to make and document on lathe)
nuts/bolts/washers - I have tons
plywood/mdf for build platform

===Heated Build Platform===
If we want it, can get away with some other hacks if we want, or leave it out altogether.
==Offers==
Alden has a Tiny G board... this is attractive

=How to flash firmware=
download arduino18 from arduino.cc (sanguino extensions appear to only work with 18)
download the sanguino extensions from sanguino.cc
unzip the arduino package
unzip the sanguino package and copy contents to the hardware folder in the arduino folder you unzipped.
get the latest sprinter fw from https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter
fire up arduino and load the sprinter sketch
edit the configuration.h file to list a motherboard type of 21
plug in the gen3+ motherboard to your laptop with a usb-ttl ftdi cable.
set the board to sanguino in the tools in arduino.
set the serial to the port in use by the ftdi cable
save/compile/upload the sketch

=How to connect and control the printer=
Download printrun from https://github.com/kliment/Printrun
make sure you have python installed, or follow instructions at the url above
fire up pronterface.py
set the serial port to the one used by ftdi cable
click connect to printer button
you should see confirmation of printer connection in the monitor box on the right
load stl and slice it with sfact in the gui, or load up a gcode file you're already processed. SD printing should work too.

=To do=
'''PSU:''' The electronics need an ATX supply (200W minimum probably, 350-700W+ would be needed if we run a heated bed) to power the mobo, and we'll need to hack out a 12V and a 5V line to connect up to the larger perfboard electronics that run the extruder/heatbed (these should be on a 12v2 rail on newer psu). I've got some connectors to do this the next time I'm in the space, or we can just cut the connectors off of the atx wires.
'''Steppers:''' The P4AC 4 axis board will need to be pulled from the cupcake, and the XYZ connected to the mobo. (we'll need another 10pin idc cable. the current rainbow cable on the gen3plus setup is the X stepper cable from the cupcake stepper controller and will have to go back once we swap out the p4ac to the mendel. I have some 10pin idc cables at home I will bring in to replace the one in the gen3plus) I have the 4th pololu in the larger perfboard, but I can easily drop in a 10pin idc header so that we can have all the pololus on the one board, which I'll do the next time I'm in the space.
'''Mosfets:''' The Nchannel Power Mosfets on the larger perfboard were ones I got from radioshack, so I'm not sure if they'll be able to run the heated bed, but they should be fine for the extruder. I have proper 50V 10A mosfets I can swap in place the next time I'm in the space or if the ones in there right now fail.
'''Motor Connections:''' The motor wires need to be connected to the pololus. Any 4 conductor cable should work fine. I have solid core 4 conductor wire I used on my bot at home, but the single conductor is a bit fragile and I'd recommend a nice stranded set instead. I have matching molex connectors and crimps so the connection to the p4ac board is via a plugged connector instead of soldered in or done with some other hacked connector.
'''Endstops:''' The ends stops need to be hooked up. The p4ac board has breakouts for the endstops, so just need to wire up microswitches on to that board. only need two wires to each switch, signal to the COMmon contact and GND to the NO (normally open) contact, the firmware uses internal pullups for the endstop pins.

Prusa Mendel Documentation

2011-05-20T15:48:33Z

Lj: initial listing of starting point for new 3d printer build

3D Printing

2011-05-20T15:38:55Z

Lj:

There are currently two 3d printers in operation at HacDC, the [[Reprap | Reprap, aka Norbert]], and Andy Walker's [[Makerbot | Makerbot Cupcake CNC, aka Slick]].

A new Prusa Mendel build is being started. You can find details at the [[PrusaMendel | Prusa Mendel Reprap]] page.

3D Printing

2011-05-20T15:38:28Z

Lj: added link to prusa mendel build page

There are currently two 3d printers in operation at HacDC, the [[Reprap | Reprap, aka Norbert]], and Andy Walker's [[Makerbot | Makerbot Cupcake CNC, aka Slick]].

A new Prusa Mendel build be started. You can find details at the [[PrusaMendel | Prusa Mendel Reprap]] page.

Machine Shop Classes

2011-01-14T16:47:28Z

Lj: /* Successful Parts! */

[[Category:Ongoing_Projects]]

This page is for the machine shop classes for the space. Currently basic lathe classes are being taught, but this may expand to include other classes/tools as they become available. (This page is a work in progress, please contribute!)

==Resources==

'''Further Reading'''

[http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/93000-93999/93212.pdf Lathe Instruction Manual]

[http://techtv.mit.edu/collections/ehs-videos/videos/144-machine-shop-8 MIT Lathe Instruction Videos]

'''Material Sources'''

[http://wiki.hacdc.org/index.php/Suppliers#Mechanical_Parts_.26_Fabrication HacDC Wiki Page: Suppliers]

[http://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster-Carr]

[http://www.sciplus.com/search.cfm/scategory/TAM/term/calipers/srch.fp/1 American Science and Surplus $20 Digital Calipers]

==Lessons Learned==

List of tips gleaned from our own <del>mistakes</del> experiences. Please contribute (with attribution / date).

*The speed settings from the classes are suggestions only. When in doubt, sacrifice a small test piece to fiddle with speeds (both motor speed and hand speed) and find the optimal settings. (Tom C. 10/13/10)
*When boring and turning, it's much easier to stand at the END of the machine (so you're looking down the axis of the part) than to stand "in front" where you'd normally think to. (Tom C. 10/13/10)
*Don't be afraid to use both hands on the dials. They're small, but two hands will give better control and smoother finishes. (Tom C. 10/13/10)

==Suggestions==

Suggested additions to our tool selection, classes, projects, etc.

'''Operations to Learn'''
*Knurling
*Tapered cutting

'''Tools to Buy'''
*Knurling Tool

See also [http://wiki.hacdc.org/index.php/Procurement Wiki Procurement Page]

'''Class Projects'''
*DIY Flashlight (VERY advanced, we may need to work up to this)
*Control Knobs (Possibly pair with an electronics class?)
*Aesthetics and Finishes (mini-class) - we make a handful of decorative rings with different tools, they make great gifts!
**Knurling
**Straight and angled grooving
**Polishing
*Threading (may take some time, I (Tom) will need to teach myself first)

==Successful Parts!==

Feel free to post up proof of your awesome part-making skills here. Stories and photos encouraged.

I lathed up some couplers for my reprap Z axis rods. Somewhat crude in that I used rectangular stock, but it is a vast improvement over the plastic part that had failed. Piece is aluminium, and was drilled through at 5mm and then drilled half way through at 8mm. I followed up by cross drilling at 3mm and tapping for 4mm screws to secure the shafts in the coupler. -John
[http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UvQljTfsdFU/TS039Pz8QAI/AAAAAAAAA2s/GikRllVOCeE/s800/CIMG7202.JPG Lathed motor to threaded rod connector]

I hobbed a bolt for use in a reprap Wade's extruder. The bolt was a 5/16 x 2.5" hex head bolt that was to be used in the extruder. The bolt was notched, then an m3 tap was put in the headstock and the bolt was hobbed to have teeth to move the filament. A hobbing jig is in the reprap bin for future use in case anyone else needs to create this part. The whole procedure took less than 10 minutes. -John

Makerbot machines.xml

2010-12-28T05:23:26Z

Lj:

=== This is important and necessary. ===

After installing replicator-G and running it for the first time, a .replicatorg directory will be created in your home directory (without notification). You'll need to replace the machines.xml file in the secret ~/.replicatorg directory with the following code (or at least add in the part about Andy's Cupcake).

On Windows XP, replicatorG v23 doesn't seem to recognize a machines.xml place in ~/.replicatorg folder. Instead, add Andy's makebot info to the makerbot.xml file, located in the machines folder of your replicatorg install.

The machines.xml file describes how the machine is physically set up to replicator-G. The important difference between the Andy's version and the regular version is that Andy replaced the z-axis screws on his bot with better ones. The new screws are great for stability, but they have a different thread pitch from default, resulting in a different height traveled per rotation. The machines.xml file quantifies that travel for the build software.

A new stepper controller was installed on the makerbot. It uses pololu stepper controllers setup in 1/16 microstepping configuration. You will want to use the following block for the machines.xml so the scale values are correct for the 1/16 settings.

1/16 microstepping (4 axis controller)
<pre>
<?xml version="1.1" encoding="utf-8"?>
<machines>

<machine>
<name>3-Axis Simulator</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="100" scale="320"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="null"> 
<speedup>20</speedup> 
</driver>
</machine>

<machine>
<name>Andy Walker's Cupcake with 4 axis board</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="94.139704"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="94.139704"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="150" scale="1256"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1a" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" heatedplatform="true" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="sanguino3g">


<rate>38400</rate>
<parity>8</parity>


<debuglevel>0</debuglevel>
</driver>
<warmup>
</warmup> 
<cooldown>
(Turn off steppers after a build.)
M18
</cooldown>
</machine>
</machines>
</pre>

1/2 microstepping configuration (makerbot stepper controllers)
<pre>
<?xml version="1.1" encoding="utf-8"?>
<machines>

<machine>
<name>3-Axis Simulator</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="100" scale="320"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="null"> 
<speedup>20</speedup> 
</driver>
</machine>

<machine>
<name>Andy Walker's Cupcake</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="11.767463"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="11.767463"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="150" scale="157"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1a" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" heatedplatform="true" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="sanguino3g">


<rate>38400</rate>
<parity>8</parity>


<debuglevel>0</debuglevel>
</driver>
<warmup>
</warmup> 
<cooldown>
(Turn off steppers after a build.)
M18
</cooldown>
</machine>
</machines>
</pre>

[[Category:Makerbot]]
[[Category:Printing]]

Makerbot Operators Log

2010-12-28T05:22:31Z

Lj:

==== When you use the Cupcake, please add notes here. Newest at top. ====
* Dec 27, 2010. (John, Elliot) swapped out the makerbot standard 1/2 microstepping stepper controllers for a 4-axis board using pololu controllers in 1/16 configuration. The bot is much quieter with the 1/16 microstepping. You will have to update your machines.xml to use the new 1/16 configuration.

* Dec 20, 2010. (Will.) Printer a bunch of snowflakes for the holiday party. Experimented with raftless printing. Taught Eric how to use the makerbot.

* Dec 20, 2010. (Eric.) Found Will and makerbot in working condition. Printed pretty birthday snowflakes. [[Image: makerbot_snowflakes.jpg|100px]]

* Dec 19, 2010. (Will.) Found makerbot in working condition. Fired up makerbot and extruded some goo for a few minutes, had no problems. Printed a large object, makerbot ran without encountering any problems.

* Dec 17, 2010. (Elliot, Will, Speek.) Replaced the stock v4 extruder head with a self-printed Brutstruder: [[Image: brutstruder_cupcake.jpg|100 px]] Elliot printed some multicolour items for his nieces for Xmas, changing the filament a bunch of times with no problems. Has the brutstruder fixed our filament feed woes?!?!? Stay tuned....

* Dec 10-Dec 15, 2010. (Elliot, Xaq) Much frustration. On-and-off printing, seemingly due to the extruder head not carrying enough force. Got it working with the (wider, more round) white filament, but still having troubles with the (smaller, slightly-oval) black filament. One night when it was working, probably the 13th, Xaq and Nick made up a model for a replacement joystick part. [[Image:cupcake_joystick.jpg|100px]]

* Dec 8, 2010. (Xaq and Elliot.) We spent a few hours trying to figure out why the feed wasn't feeding. It would go for a few minutes then stall -- white filament or black filament. Xaq was thinking it was a rotation thing, and we noticed that the drive wheel wants to twist the feedstock around in a circle, putting a twist in it. Elliot noticed a ton of back-pressure from the hot end, and wonders if that's not to blame.

* Dec 3, 2010. (Elliot.) Printed out a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1842 bottle opener] and it worked just perfectly. Noticed that the feed had a kink in it, and clipped and re-fed it. It didn't print sucessfully since. Tried to print the [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1046 whistle] a few times with no joy. It would stop feeing a few layers into the print. There's something to do with a twist in the feed? Or it the feed slightly oval-shaped and slipping? Fed the makerbot the white ABS feed, which is slightly thicker, and it printed flawlessly. Hmmm...

* Nov 29, 2010. (Elliot and Xaq.) While Xaq was in the space, we both spent about 2 hours of frustratingly abortive 2-minute prints, attempts at raftlessly printing a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:49 coathook]. Shortly after Xaq left, Elliot printed a coathook with a raft and it worked well enough (with babying on the feed at points). Elliot then printed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1912 dino-2s for the brutstruder] without rafts with only one flaw in the first of five prints. I'm at a loss for what changed: it got later at night, and the machine had been in continuous use for longer. I wonder if the bot needs much longer to warm up than we thought? Anyway, before printing something raftless, I would try printing a rafted small object first as a sacrifice to the makerbot gods (or at least to verify that the machine is working) because that seems to be a lot less tweaky.

* Nov 27, 2010. (Elliot.) Printed small odds and ends, just to watch it go. Looks great. The new spool which Dan B and I built seems to work fine, and certainly won't tangle. Moved it to its own (partly mobile) table. I've been working on raftless settings, and it's looking great. Printed a few of the heater-retainer collars for later in case we need them, and tossed them in the reprap box. It's about 5 hours of printing time since the rebuild and it's behaving flawlessly. Will this continue? Knock on wood.

* Nov 26, 2010. (Elliot.) Having broken the hot end of the extruder, I needed to fix it. Took it completely apart and soaked all the parts in acetone, getting all the melted plastic off. I reinstalled things as per the makerbot instructions, with the exception of using teflon tape to (electrically) insulate the barrel from the nichrome wire, because its original sheathing had come off during removal. Noticed that the brass barrel was installed upside-down, so I fixed that. The nozzle seems to be flowing a lot now -- so much that I had to reconfigure skeinforge to deal with the extra plastic. We'll see if it holds up. Printed out a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4036 brutstruder] and the plastic axles for the new feed spool.

* Nov 24, 2010. (Elliot and Will G.) Still having problems with intermittent extruder stoppage. Will and Elliot removed the hot end and cleaned it out. That wasn't the problem. Elliot noticed that the idler wheel was binding, fixed that. Still not the problem, though it has sufficient strength to push through whatever is giving the high back-pressure. Elliot started to re-do the hot end again, and probably messed up the heater in the process. Hopefully it's just a loose wire, but the insulation and heating element may need to be re-worked. Sucks....

* Nov 20, 2010. (Elliot and Tommy) Noticed that gear motor was out of line. Tommy and I added a bearing to it. Extruder still just randomly stops extruding after 15 minutes or so.

* Nov 18, 2010. (Elliot) Printed out some widgets. Extruder head stopped extruding halfway through a print, turned out to be due to ABS bits fouling up the pushing-gear teeth. Also had some troubles with adhesion of the raft to platform.

[[Category:Makerbot]]
[[Category:Printing]]

Makerbot machines.xml

2010-12-28T05:19:39Z

Lj:

=== This is important and necessary. ===

After installing replicator-G and running it for the first time, a .replicatorg directory will be created in your home directory (without notification). You'll need to replace the machines.xml file in the secret ~/.replicatorg directory with the following code (or at least add in the part about Andy's Cupcake).

On Windows XP, replicatorG v23 doesn't seem to recognize a machines.xml place in ~/.replicatorg folder. Instead, add Andy's makebot info to the makerbot.xml file, located in the machines folder of your replicatorg install.

The machines.xml file describes how the machine is physically set up to replicator-G. The important difference between the Andy's version and the regular version is that Andy replaced the z-axis screws on his bot with better ones. The new screws are great for stability, but they have a different thread pitch from default, resulting in a different height traveled per rotation. The machines.xml file quantifies that travel for the build software.

A new stepper controller was installed on the makerbot. It uses pololu stepper controllers setup in 1/16 microstepping configuration. You will want to use the following block for the machines.xml so the scale values are correct for the 1/16 settings.

1/16 microstepping (4 axis controller)
<pre>
<?xml version="1.1" encoding="utf-8"?>
<machines>

<machine>
<name>3-Axis Simulator</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="100" scale="320"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="null"> 
<speedup>20</speedup> 
</driver>
</machine>

<machine>
<name>Andy Walker's Cupcake</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="94.139704"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="94.139704"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="150" scale="1256"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1a" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" heatedplatform="true" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="sanguino3g">


<rate>38400</rate>
<parity>8</parity>


<debuglevel>0</debuglevel>
</driver>
<warmup>
</warmup> 
<cooldown>
(Turn off steppers after a build.)
M18
</cooldown>
</machine>
</machines>
</pre>

1/2 microstepping configuration (makerbot stepper controllers)
<pre>
<?xml version="1.1" encoding="utf-8"?>
<machines>

<machine>
<name>3-Axis Simulator</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="100" scale="320"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="null"> 
<speedup>20</speedup> 
</driver>
</machine>

<machine>
<name>Andy Walker's Cupcake</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="11.767463"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="11.767463"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="150" scale="157"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1a" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" heatedplatform="true" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="sanguino3g">


<rate>38400</rate>
<parity>8</parity>


<debuglevel>0</debuglevel>
</driver>
<warmup>
</warmup> 
<cooldown>
(Turn off steppers after a build.)
M18
</cooldown>
</machine>
</machines>
</pre>

[[Category:Makerbot]]
[[Category:Printing]]

Makerbot machines.xml

2010-12-28T04:42:40Z

Lj:

=== This is important and necessary. ===

After installing replicator-G and running it for the first time, a .replicatorg directory will be created in your home directory (without notification). You'll need to replace the machines.xml file in the secret ~/.replicatorg directory with the following code (or at least add in the part about Andy's Cupcake).

On Windows XP, replicatorG v23 doesn't seem to recognize a machines.xml place in ~/.replicatorg folder. Instead, add Andy's makebot info to the makerbot.xml file, located in the machines folder of your replicatorg install.

The machines.xml file describes how the machine is physically set up to replicator-G. The important difference between the Andy's version and the regular version is that Andy replaced the z-axis screws on his bot with better ones. The new screws are great for stability, but they have a different thread pitch from default, resulting in a different height traveled per rotation. The machines.xml file quantifies that travel for the build software.

1/16 microstepping (4 axis controller)
<pre>
<?xml version="1.1" encoding="utf-8"?>
<machines>

<machine>
<name>3-Axis Simulator</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="100" scale="320"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="null"> 
<speedup>20</speedup> 
</driver>
</machine>

<machine>
<name>Andy Walker's Cupcake</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="94.139704"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="94.139704"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="150" scale="1256"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1a" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" heatedplatform="true" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="sanguino3g">


<rate>38400</rate>
<parity>8</parity>


<debuglevel>0</debuglevel>
</driver>
<warmup>
</warmup> 
<cooldown>
(Turn off steppers after a build.)
M18
</cooldown>
</machine>
</machines>
</pre>

1/2 microstepping configuration (makerbot stepper controllers)
<pre>
<?xml version="1.1" encoding="utf-8"?>
<machines>

<machine>
<name>3-Axis Simulator</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="1000" scale="11.4485"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="100" scale="320"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="null"> 
<speedup>20</speedup> 
</driver>
</machine>

<machine>
<name>Andy Walker's Cupcake</name>
<geometry type="cartesian">
<axis id="x" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="11.767463"/>
<axis id="y" length="300" maxfeedrate="5000" scale="11.767463"/>
<axis id="z" length="300" maxfeedrate="150" scale="157"/>
</geometry>
<tools>
<tool name="Pinch Wheel Extruder v1.1a" type="extruder" material="abs" motor="true" floodcoolant="false" mistcoolant="false" fan="true" valve="false" heatedplatform="true" collet="false" heater="true"/>
</tools>
<clamps></clamps>
<driver name="sanguino3g">


<rate>38400</rate>
<parity>8</parity>


<debuglevel>0</debuglevel>
</driver>
<warmup>
</warmup> 
<cooldown>
(Turn off steppers after a build.)
M18
</cooldown>
</machine>
</machines>
</pre>

[[Category:Makerbot]]
[[Category:Printing]]